“This,” he says, “is the most beautiful spot in the Hedjaz, and more
picturesque and delightful than anything I had seen since my departure
from Lebanon, in Syria. The top of Djebel Kora is flat, but large masses
of granite lie scattered over it, the surface of which, like that of the
granite rocks near the second cataract of the Nile, is blackened by the
sun. Several small rivulets descend from this peak and irrigate the
plain, which is covered with verdant fields and large shady trees beside
the granite rocks. To those who have only known the dreary and scorching
sands of the lower country of the Hedjaz, this scene is as surprising as
the keen air which blows here is refreshing. Many of the fruit-trees of
Europe are found here: figs, apricots, peaches, apples, the Egyptian
sycamore, almonds, pomegranates; but particularly vines, the produce of
which is of the best quality. After having passed through this
delightful district for about half an hour, just as the sun was rising,
when every leaf and blade of grass was covered with a balmy dew, and
every tree and shrub diffused a fragrance as delicious to the smell as
was the landscape to the eye, I halted near the largest of the rivulets,
which, although not more than two paces across, nourishes upon its banks
a green alpine turf, such as the mighty Nile, with all its luxuriance,
can never produce in Egypt.”
Burckhardt had an interview with Mohammed Ali on the evening of his
arrival in Tayf. His suspicions were confirmed: the Kadi (Judge) of
Mecca and two well-informed teachers of the Moslem faith were present,
and although the Pasha professed to accept Burckhard’s protestations of
his Moslem character, it was very evident to the latter that he was
cunningly tested by the teachers. Nevertheless, when the interview was
over, they pronounced him to be not only a genuine Moslem, but one of
unusual learning and piety. The Pasha was forced to submit to this
decision, but he was evidently not entirely convinced, for he gave orders
that Burckhardt should be the guest of his physician, in order that his
speech and actions might be more closely observed. Burckhardt took a
thoroughly Oriental way to release himself from this surveillance. He
gave the physician so much trouble that the latter was very glad, at the
end of ten days, to procure from the Pasha permission for him to return
to Mecca, in order to get rid of him. Burckhardt thereupon travelled to
the holy city in company with the Kadi himself.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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