Leaving Mecca with a small caravan of pilgrims, on January 15, 1815, he
reached Medina after a journey of thirteen days, during which he narrowly
escaped being slain by the Bedouins.
Burckhardt was attacked with fever soon after his arrival at Medina, and
remained there three months. The ceremonies prescribed for the pilgrims
who visit the city are brief and unimportant; but the description of the
tomb of Mohammed is of sufficient interest to quote. “The mausoleum,” he
says, “stands at the southeastern corner of the principal mosque, and is
protected from the too near approach of visitors by an iron railing,
painted green, about two-thirds the height of the pillars of the
colonnade which runs around the interior of the mosque. The railing is
of good workmanship, in imitation of filigree, and is interwoven with
open-worked inscriptions of yellow bronze, supposed by the vulgar to be
of gold, and of so close a texture that no view can be obtained of the
interior except by several small windows, about six inches square, which
are placed in the four sides of the railing, about five feet above the
ground. On the south side, where are the two principal windows, before
which the devout stand when praying, the railing is plated with silver,
and the common inscription—‘There is no god but God, the Evident
Truth!’—is wrought in silver letters around the windows. The tomb
itself, as well as those of Abu Bekr and Omar, which stand close to it,
is concealed from the public gaze by a curtain of rich silk brocade of
various colors, interwoven with silver flowers and arabesques, with
inscriptions in characters of gold running across the midst of it, like
that of the covering of the Kaaba. Behind this curtain, which, according
to the historian of the city, was formerly changed every six years, and
is now renewed by the Porte whenever the old one is decayed, or when a
new Sultan ascends the throne, none but the chief eunuchs, the attendants
of the mosque, are permitted to enter. This holy sanctuary once served,
as the temple of Delphi did among the Greeks, as the public treasury of
the nation. Here the money, jewels, and other precious articles of the
people of Hedjaz were kept in chests, or suspended on silken ropes.
Among these was a copy of the Koran in Cufic characters; a brilliant star
set in diamonds and pearls, which was suspended directly over the
Prophet’s tomb; with all sorts of vessels filled with jewels, earrings,
bracelets, necklaces, and other ornaments sent as presents from all parts
of the empire. Most of these articles were carried away by the Wahabees
when they sacked and plundered the sacred cities.”
[Picture: View of El-Medina]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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