Burckhardt also gives an interesting description of the sermon preached
on Mount Arafat, the hearing of which is an indispensable part of the
pilgrimage: unless a person is at least present during its delivery, he
is not entitled to the name of _hadji_, or pilgrim. The great encampment
broke up at three o’clock in the afternoon, and Mount Arafat was soon
covered from top to bottom. “The two Pashas, with their whole cavalry
drawn up in two squadrons behind them, took their posts in the rear of
the deep line of camels of the pilgrims, to which those of the people of
Hedjaz were also joined; and here they waited in solemn and respectful
silence the conclusion of the sermon. Farther removed from the preacher
was the Scherif of Mecca, with his small body of soldiers, distinguished
by several green standards carried before him. The two _mahmals_, or
holy camels, which carry on their backs the high structure which serves
as the banner of their respective caravans, made way with difficulty
through the ranks of camels that encircled the southern and eastern sides
of the hill, opposite to the preacher, and took their station, surrounded
by their guards, directly under the platform in front of him. The
preacher, who is usually the Kadi of Mecca, was mounted upon a finely
caparisoned camel, which had been led up the steps: it was traditionally
said that Mohammed was always seated when he addressed his followers, a
practice in which he was imitated by all the Caliphs who came to the
pilgrimage, and who from this place addressed their subjects in person.
The Turkish gentleman of Constantinople, however, unused to camel-riding,
could not keep his seat so well as the hardy Bedouin prophet, and the
camel becoming unruly, he was soon obliged to alight from it. He read
his sermon from a book in Arabic, which he held in his hands. At
intervals of every four or five minutes he paused and stretched forth his
arms to implore blessings from above, while the assembled multitudes
around and before him waved the skirts of their _ihrams_ over their heads
and rent the air with shouts of _Lebeyk_, _Allah_, _huma lebeyk_!—‘Here
we are at Thy bidding, oh God!’ During the waving of the _ihrams_ the
sides of the mountain, thickly crowded as it was by the people in their
white garments, had the appearance of a cataract of water; while the
green umbrellas, with which several thousand pilgrims sitting on their
camels below were provided, bore some resemblance to a verdant plain.”
Burckhardt performed all the remaining ceremonies required of a pilgrim;
but these have been more recently described and with greater minuteness
by Captain Burton. He remained in Mecca for another month, unsuspected
and unmolested, and completed his observations of a place which the Arabs
believed they had safely sealed against all Christian travellers.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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