The second day’s journey brought Wellsted to a small encampment, where
the chief’s wives were abiding. They conversed with him, unveiled, gave
him coffee, milk, and dates, and treated him with all the hospitality
which their scanty means allowed. The Beni Geneba tribe numbers about
three thousand five hundred fighting men; they are spread over a large
extent of Southern Arabia, and are divided into two distinct
classes—those who live by fishing, and those who follow pastoral
pursuits. A race of fishermen, however, is found on all parts of the
Arabian coast. In some districts they are considered a separate and
degraded people, with whom the genuine Bedouins will neither eat,
associate, nor intermarry; but among the Beni Geneba this distinction
does not exist.
Wellsted might have penetrated much farther to the westward under the
protection of this tribe, and was tempted to do so; but it seemed more
important to move northward, and get upon some one of the caravan tracks
leading into Central Arabia. He therefore returned to the camp of the
Beni-Abu-Ali, where the friendly people would hardly suffer him to
depart, promising to build a house for him if he would remain a month
with them. For two days he travelled northward, over an undulating
region of sand, sometimes dotted with stunted acacias, and reached a
district called Bediah, consisting of seven villages, each seated in its
little oasis of date palms. One striking feature of these towns is their
low situation. They are erected in artificial hollows, which have been
excavated to the depth of six or eight feet. Water is then conveyed to
them in subterranean channels from wells in the neighboring hills, and
the soil is so fertile that irrigation suffices to produce the richest
harvest of fruit and vegetables. A single step carries the traveller
from the glare and sand of the desert into a spot teeming with the most
luxuriant vegetation, and embowered by lofty trees, whose foliage keeps
out the sun. “Some idea,” says Wellsted, “may be formed of the density
of this shade by the effect it produces in lessening the terrestrial
radiation. A Fahrenheit thermometer which within the house stood at 55°,
six inches from the ground fell to 45°. From this cause and the
abundance of water they are always saturated with damp, and even in the
heat of the day possess a clammy coldness.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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