On approaching Ibrah, the next large town to the north, the country
became hilly, and the valleys between the abrupt limestone ranges
increased in fertility. Wellsted thus describes the place: “There are
some handsome houses in Ibrah; but the style of building is quite
peculiar to this part of Arabia. To avoid the damp and catch an
occasional beam of the sun above the trees, they are usually very lofty.
A parapet surrounding the upper part is turreted, and on some of the
largest houses guns are mounted. The windows and doors have the
Saracenic arch, and every part of the building is profusely decorated
with ornaments of stucco in bas-relief, some in very good taste. The
doors are also cased with brass, and have rings and other massive
ornaments of the same metal.
“Ibrah is justly renowned for the beauty and fairness of its females.
Those we met on the streets evinced but little shyness, and on my return
to the tent I found it filled with them. They were in high glee at all
they saw; every box I had was turned over for their inspection, and
whenever I attempted to remonstrate against their proceedings they
stopped my mouth with their hands. With such damsels there was nothing
left but to laugh and look on.”
Travelling two days farther in the northward, Wellsted reached the town
of Semmed, where he found a fine stream of running water. The Shekh’s
house was a large fort, the rooms of which were spacious and lofty, but
destitute of furniture. Suspended on pegs protruding from the walls were
the saddles, cloths, and harness of the horses and camels. The ceilings
were painted in various devices, but the floors were of mud, and only
partially covered with mats. Lamps formed of shells, a species of murex,
were suspended by lines from the ceiling. On returning to the tent,
after this visit, the traveller found, as usual, a great crowd collected
there, but kept in order by a boy about twelve years of age. He had
taken possession of the tent, as its guardian, and allowed none to enter
without his permission. He carried a sword longer than himself, and also
a stick, with which he occasionally laid about him. It is a part of the
Arab system of education to cease treating boys as children at a very
early age, and they acquire, therefore, the gravity and demeanor of men.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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