The next morning the Shekh returned, with a positive refusal to allow
them to proceed farther. Wellsted demanded a written refusal, as
evidence which he could present to the Sultan, and this the Shekh at once
promised to give. His object was evidently to force the traveller away
from the place, and such was the threatening appearance of things that
the latter had no wish to remain. The Wahabees crowded around the party
in great numbers, and seemed only waiting for some pretext to commence an
affray. “When the Shekh came and presented me with the letter for the
Sultan,” says Wellsted, “I knew it would be in vain to make any further
effort to shake his resolution, and therefore did not attempt it. In the
meantime news had spread far and wide that two Englishmen, with a box of
‘dollars,’ but in reality containing only the few clothes that we carried
with us, had halted in the town. The Wahabees and other tribes had met
in deliberation, while the lower classes of the townsfolk were creating
noise and confusion. The Shekh either had not the shadow of any
influence, or was afraid to exercise it, and his followers evidently
wished to share in the plunder. It was time to act. I called Ali on one
side, told him to make neither noise nor confusion, but to collect the
camels without delay. In the meantime we had packed up the tent, the
crowd increasing every minute; the camels were ready, and we mounted on
them. A leader, or some trifling incident, was now only wanting to
furnish them with a pretext for an onset. They followed us with hisses
and various other noises until we got sufficiently clear to push briskly
forward; and, beyond a few stones being thrown, we reached the outskirts
of the town without further molestation. I had often before heard of the
inhospitable character of the inhabitants of this place. The neighboring
Arabs observe that to enter Obri a man must either go armed to the teeth,
or as a beggar with a cloth, and that not of decent quality, around his
waist. Thus, for a second time, ended my hopes of reaching Derreyeh from
this quarter.”
Wellsted was forced to return to Suweik, narrowly escaping a Bedouin
ambush on the way. As a last attempt he followed the coast as far as
Schinas, near the mouth of the Straits of Ormuz, and thence despatched a
messenger to the Wahabees at Birsimah. This plan also failed, and he
then returned to India. He has given us, however, the only authentic
account of the scenery and inhabitants of the interior of Oman, and his
travels are thus an important contribution to our knowledge of Arabia.
It is a sufficient commentary on the exclusive character of Interior
Arabia, and the difficulties that bar the way there to free and thorough
exploration, that, although Lieutenant Wellsted’s journey was in 1835, we
still (1892) have to turn to his very interesting narrative for almost
all we know of the interior of Oman.
CHAPTER VI.
WELLSTED’S DISCOVERY OF AN ANCIENT CITY IN HADRAMAUT.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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