WHILE employed in the survey of the southern coast of Arabia in the
spring of 1835, Lieutenant Wellsted was occupied for a time near the cape
called Ras el-Aseïda, in Hadramaut, about one hundred miles east of Aden.
On this cape there is a watch-tower, with the guardian of which, an
officer named Hamed, he became acquainted; and on learning from the
Bedouins of the neighborhood that extensive ruins, which they described
as having been built by infidels, and of great antiquity, were to be
found at some distance inland, he prevailed upon the officer to procure
him camels and guides.
One day, having landed with a midshipman in order to visit some
inscriptions at a few hours’ distance, the Bedouins who brought the
camels refused to go to the place, but expressed their willingness to
convey the two Europeans to the ruined city. Hamed declined to accompany
them, on the plea of sickness, and they were unsupplied with provisions
or presents for the Shekhs of the villages on the way. Still the chance
was too tempting to be lost. Wellsted decided to trust himself to the
uncertain protection of the Bedouins, sent his boat to the surveying
vessel with a message that it should meet him at a point farther to the
westward at the end of three days, and set out for the ruins late in the
afternoon.
Leaving the sea-shore at sunset, they struck northward into the interior,
and travelled until after midnight, passing several villages of the
Diyabi Bedouins, a very fierce and powerful tribe, who are dreaded by all
their neighbors. Scraping for themselves beds in the sand, the
travellers slept until daybreak without being disturbed. The path soon
after mounted a ledge about four hundred feet in height, from the summit
of which they obtained an extensive but dreary view of the surrounding
country. Their route lay along a broad valley, skirted on each side by a
lofty range of mountains. By eight o’clock the sun became so oppressive
that the Bedouins halted under the shade of some stunted tamarisk trees.
“Within these burning hollows,” says Wellsted, “the sun’s rays are
concentrated and thrown off as from a mirror; the herbs around were
scorched to a cindery blackness; not a cloud obscured the firmament, and
the breeze which moaned past us was of a glowing heat, like that escaping
from the mouth of a furnace. Our guides dug hollows in the sand, and
thrust their blistered feet within them. Although we were not long in
availing ourselves of the practical lesson they had taught us, I began to
be far from pleased with their churlish demeanor.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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