occasions we indulged in a late supper of sweetmeats, pomegranates, and
dried fruits. Usually we sat upon mattresses spread upon the ground in
the open air, at the Shekh’s door, receiving evening visits, chatting,
telling stories, and making merry, till each, as he felt the approach of
the drowsy god, sank down into his proper place, and fell asleep.”
Burton was charmed with the garden and date-groves about Medina, and
enjoyed the excursions, which were enjoined upon him as a pilgrim, to
Jebel Ohod, the mosque of Kuba, and other places in the vicinity of the
city. On August 28th the caravan of pilgrims from Damascus arrived, and,
on account of danger from the Bedouins, decided to leave on the fourth
day afterward, taking the Desert road to Mecca, the same travelled by the
Caliph Haroun El-Raschid and his wife Zobeida, instead of the longer road
nearer the coast, which Burckhardt had followed. When this plan was
announced, Burton and his companions had but twenty-four hours to make
the necessary preparations; but by hard work they were ready. Leaving
Medina, they hastened onward to secure good places in the caravan, which
was composed of about seven thousand pilgrims, and extended over many
miles of the road.
For the first four days they travelled southward over a wild, desolate
country, almost destitute of water and vegetation. On account of heat,
as well as for greater security, the journey was made chiefly by night,
although the forced marches between the wells obliged them sometimes to
endure the greatest heat of the day. Burton says: “I can scarcely find
words to express the weary horrors of a long night’s march, during which
the hapless traveller, fuming, if a European, with disappointment in his
hopes of ‘seeing the country,’ is compelled to sit upon the back of a
creeping camel. The day sleep, too, is a kind of lethargy, and it is all
but impossible to preserve an appetite during the hours of heat.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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