After making ninety-nine miles from Medina, they reached the village of
El Suwayrkiyah, which is included within the Meccan territory. The town,
consisting of about one hundred houses, is built at the base and on the
sides of a basaltic mass which rises abruptly from the hard clayey plain.
The summit is converted into a rude fortalice by a bulwark of uncut
stone, piled up so as to make a parapet. The lower part of the town is
protected by a mud wall, with the usual semicircular towers. Inside
there is a bazaar, well supplied with meat (principally mutton) by the
neighboring Bedouins, and wheat, barley, and dates are grown near the
town. There is little to describe in the narrow streets and the mud
houses, which are essentially Arab. The fields around are divided into
little square plots by earthen ridges and stone walls; some of the palms
are fine grown trees, and the wells appeared numerous. The water is near
the surface and plentiful, but it has a brackish taste, highly
disagreeable after a few days’ use, and the effects are the reverse of
chalybeate.
Seventeen miles beyond El Suwayrkiyah is the small village of Sufayuah,
beyond which the country becomes again very wild and barren. Burton thus
describes the scenery the day after leaving Sufayuah: “This day’s march
was peculiarly Arabia. It was a desert peopled only with echoes—a place
of death for what little there is to die in it—a wilderness where, to use
my companion’s phrase, there is nothing but He (Allah). Nature, scalped,
flayed, discovered her anatomy to the gazer’s eye. The horizon was a sea
of mirage; gigantic sand-columns whirled over the plain; and on both
sides of our road were huge piles of bare rock standing detached upon the
surface of sand and clay. Here they appeared in oval lumps, heaped up
with a semblance of symmetry; there a single bowlder stood, with its
narrow foundation based upon a pedestal of low, dome-shaped rock. All
are of a pink coarse-grained granite, which flakes off in large crusts
under the influence of the atmosphere.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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