The Meccan boy Mohammed, who had been Burton’s companion during the
pilgrimage, conducted the latter to his mother’s house, where he remained
during his stay. A meal of vermicelli and sugar was prepared on their
arrival in the night, and after an hour or two of sleep they rose at
dawn, in order to perform the ceremonies of arrival. After having
bathed, they walked in their pilgrim garb to the _Beit Allah_, or “House
of God.”
“There,” says Burton, “there at last it lay, the bourne of my long and
weary pilgrimage, realizing the plans and hopes of many and many a year.
The mirage medium of fancy invested the huge catafalque and its gloomy
pall with peculiar charms. There were no giant fragments of hoar
antiquity as in Egypt, no remains of graceful and harmonious beauty as in
Greece and Italy, no barbaric gorgeousness as in the buildings of India;
yet the view was strange, unique, and how few have looked upon the
celebrated shrine! I may truly say, that, of all the worshippers who
clung weeping to the curtain, or who pressed their beating hearts to the
stone, none felt for the moment a deeper emotion than did the Hadji from
the far north. It was as if the poetical legends of the Arab spoke
truth, and that the waving wings of angels, not the sweet breezes of
morning, were agitating and swelling the black covering of the shrine.
But, to confess humbling truth, theirs was the high feeling of religious
enthusiasm, mine was the ecstasy of gratified pride.”
Burton’s description of the Beit Allah and the Kaaba is more minute and
careful than that of Burckhardt, but does not differ from it in any
important particular. Neither is it necessary to quote his account of
the ceremonies to be performed by each individual pilgrim, with all their
mechanical prostrations and repetitions. His account of the visit to the
famous Black Stone, however, is both curious and amusing: “For a long
time I stood looking in despair at the swarming crowd of Bedouin and
other pilgrims that besieged it. But the boy Mohammed was equal to the
occasion. During our circuit he had displayed a fiery zeal against
heresy and schism by foully abusing every Persian in his path, and the
inopportune introduction of hard words into his prayers made the latter a
strange patchwork. He might, for instance, be repeating ‘and I take
refuge with thee from ignominy in this world,’ when, ‘O thou rejected
one, son of the rejected!’ would be the interpolation addressed to some
long-bearded Khorassani, ‘and in that to come—O hog and brother of a
hoggess!’ And so he continued till I wondered that no one dared to turn
and rend him. After vainly addressing the pilgrims, of whom nothing
could be seen but a mosaic of occiputs and shoulder-blades, the boy
Mohammed collected about half a dozen stalwart Meccans, with whose
assistance, by sheer strength, we wedged our way into the thin and
light-legged crowd. The Bedouins turned round upon us like wildcats, but
they had no daggers.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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