The season being autumn, they had not swelled
themselves with milk for six months; and they had become such living
mummies that I could have managed single-handed half a dozen of them.
After thus reaching the stone, despite popular indignation, testified by
impatient shouts, we monopolized the use of it for at least ten minutes.
Whilst kissing it and rubbing hands and forehead upon it I narrowly
observed it, and came away persuaded that it is a big aërolite.”
[Picture: Camp at Mount Arafat]
On September 12th the pilgrims set out for Mount Arafat. Three miles
from Mecca there is a large village called Muna, noted for three standing
miracles—the pebbles, there thrown at the Devil, return by angelic agency
to whence they came; during the three days of drying meat rapacious birds
and beasts cannot prey there, and flies do not settle upon the articles
of food exposed in the bazaars. Beyond the place there is a mosque
called El Khayf, where, according to some traditions, Adam is buried, his
head being at one end of the long wall and his feet at the other, while
the dome is built over his navel.
“Arafat,” says Burton, “is about a six hours’ march, or twelve miles, on
the Taif road, due east of Mecca. We arrived there in a shorter time,
but our weary camels, during the last third of the way, frequently threw
themselves upon the ground. Human beings suffered more. Between Muna
and Arafat I saw no less than five men fall down and die upon the
highway; exhausted and moribund, they had dragged themselves out to give
up the ghost where it departs to instant beatitude. The spectacle showed
how easy it is to die in these latitudes; each man suddenly staggered,
fell as if shot, and, after a brief convulsion, lay still as marble. The
corpses were carefully taken up, and carelessly buried that same evening,
in a vacant space amongst the crowds encamped upon the Arafat plain.
“Nothing can be more picturesque than the view the mountain affords of
the blue peaks behind, and the vast encampment scattered over the barren
yellow plain below. On the north lay the regularly pitched camp of the
guards that defend the unarmed pilgrims. To the eastward was the
Scherif’s encampment with the bright mahmals and the gilt knobs of the
grander pavilions; whilst, on the southern and western sides, the tents
of the vulgar crowded the ground, disposed in dowars, or circles, for
penning cattle. After many calculations, I estimated the number to be
not less than fifty thousand, of all ages and both sexes.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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