After the sermon on Arafat, which Burton describes in the same manner as
Burckhardt, the former gives an account of the subsequent ceremony of
“stoning the Great Devil” near the village of Muna: “‘The Shaytan
el-Kabir’ is a dwarf buttress of rude masonry, about eight feet high by
two and a half broad, placed against a rough wall of stones, at the
Meccan entrance to Muna. As the ceremony of ‘Ramy,’ or Lapidation, must
be performed on the first day by all pilgrims between sunrise and sunset,
and as the Fiend was malicious enough to appear in a rugged pass, the
crowd makes the place dangerous. On one side of the road, which is not
forty feet broad, stood a row of shops belonging principally to barbers.
On the other side is the rugged wall of the pillar, with a _chevaux de
frise_ of Bedouins and naked boys. The narrow space was crowded with
pilgrims, all struggling like drowning men to approach as near as
possible to the Devil; it would have been easy to run over the heads of
the mass. Amongst them were horsemen with rearing chargers. Bedouins on
wild camels, and grandees on mules and asses, with outrunners, were
breaking a way by assault and battery. I had read Ali Bey’s
self-felicitations upon escaping this place with ‘only two wounds in the
left leg,’ and had duly provided myself with a hidden dagger. The
precaution was not useless. Scarcely had my donkey entered the crowd
than he was overthrown by a dromedary, and I found myself under the
stamping and roaring beast’s stomach. By a judicious use of the knife, I
avoided being trampled upon, and lost no time in escaping from a place so
ignobly dangerous. Finding an opening at last, we approached within
about five cubits of the place, and holding each stone between the thumb
and forefinger of the ring hand, cast it at the pillar, exclaiming: ‘In
the name of Allah, and Allah is Almighty, I do this in hatred of the
Fiend and to his shame.’ The seven stones being duly thrown, we retired,
and entering the barber’s booth, took our places upon one of the earthen
benches around it. This was the time to remove the _ihram_ or pilgrim’s
garb, and to return to the normal state of El Islam. The barber shaved
our heads, and, after trimming our beards and cutting our nails, made us
repeat these words: ‘I purpose loosening my _ihram_, according to the
practice of the Prophet, whom may Allah bless and preserve! O Allah,
make unto me in every hair a light, a purity, and a generous reward! In
the name of Allah, and Allah is Almighty!’ At the conclusion of his
labor the barber politely addressed to us a ‘Naiman’—Pleasure to you! To
which we as ceremoniously replied, ‘Allah give thee pleasure!’”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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