“Once for all let us attempt to acquire a fairly correct and
comprehensive knowledge of the Arabian Peninsula. With its coasts we are
already in great measure acquainted; several of its maritime provinces
have been, if not thoroughly, at least sufficiently, explored; Yemen and
Hedjaz, Mecca and Medina, are no longer mysteries to us, nor are we
wholly without information on the districts of Hadramaut and Oman. But
of the interior of the vast region, of its plains and mountains, its
tribes and cities, of its governments and institutions, of its
inhabitants, their ways and customs, of their social condition, how far
advanced in civilization or sunk in barbarism, what do we as yet really
know, save from accounts necessarily wanting in fulness and precision?
It is time to fill up this blank in the map of Asia, and this, at
whatever risks, we will now endeavor; either the land before us shall be
our tomb, or we will traverse it in its fullest breadth, and know what it
contains from shore to shore. _Vestigia nulla retrorsum_.”
“Such were my thoughts, and such, more or less, I should suppose, those
of my companion, when we found ourselves at fall of night without the
eastern gate of Ma’an, while the Arabs, our guides and fellow-travellers,
filled their water-skins from a gushing source hard by the town walls,
and adjusted the saddles and the burdens of their camels, in preparation
for the long journey that lay before us and them. It was the evening of
June 16, 1862; the largest stars were already visible in the deep blue
depths of a cloudless sky, while the crescent moon, high to the west,
shone as she shines in those heavens, and promised us assistance for some
hours of our night march. We were soon mounted on our meagre long-necked
beasts, ‘as if,’ according to the expression of an Arab poet, ‘we and our
men were at mast-heads,’ and now we set our faces to the east. Behind us
lay, in a mass of dark outline, the walls and castle of Ma’an, its houses
and gardens, and farther back in the distance the high and barren range
of the Sheraa’ Mountains, merging into the coast chain of Hejaz. Before
and around us extended a wide and level plain, blackened over with
countless pebbles of basalt and flint, except where the moonbeams gleamed
white on little intervening patches of clear sand, or on yellowish
streaks of withered grass, the scanty product of the winter rains, and
dried now into hay. Over all a deep silence, which even our Arab
companions seemed fearful of breaking; when they spoke it was in a half
whisper and in a few words, while the noiseless tread of our camels sped
stealthily but rapidly through the gloom without disturbing its
stillness.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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