“Some precaution was not indeed wholly out of place, for that stage of
the journey on which we were now entering was anything but safe. We were
bound for the Djowf, the nearest inhabited district of Central Arabia,
its outlying station, in fact. Now the intervening tract offered for the
most part the double danger of robbers and of thirst, of marauding bands
and of the summer season. The distance itself to be traversed was near
two hundred miles in a straight line, and unavoidable circumstances were
likely to render it much longer.”
Palgrave’s companion was a native Syrian, named Barakat—a man on whom he
could fully rely. Hardy, young, and enterprising, he belonged to a
locality whose inhabitants are accustomed to danger. But the Bedouins
who furnished the camels, and acted as guides, were of another class.
They were three in number—Salim, their leader, a member of a powerful
family of the Howeytat tribe, but outlawed for pillage and murder, and
two men, Alee and Djordee, utter barbarians in appearance no less than in
character. Even Salim advised the travellers to avoid all familiarities
with the latter.
“Myself and my companion,” says Palgrave, “were dressed like ordinary
class travellers of inner Syria, an equipment in which we had already
made our way from Gaza on the sea-coast to Ma’an without much remark or
unseasonable questioning from those whom we fell in with, while we
traversed a country so often described already by Pococke, Laborde, and
downward, under the name of Arabia Petra, that it would be superfluous
for me to enter into any new account of it in the present work. Our
dress, then, consisted partly of a long stout blouse of Egyptian hemp,
under which, unlike our Bedouin fellow-travellers, we indulged in the
luxury of the loose cotton drawers common in the East, while our colored
head-kerchiefs, though simple enough, were girt by ’akkals or headbands
of some pretension to elegance; the loose red-leather boots of the
country completed our toilet.
“But in the large travelling-sacks at our camels’ sides were contained
suits of a more elegant appearance, carefully concealed from Bedouin
gaze, but destined for appearance when we should reach better inhabited
and more civilized districts. This reserve toilet numbered articles like
the following: colored overdresses, the Syrian combaz, handkerchiefs
whose silk stripes relieved the plebeian cotton, and girdles of good
material and tasteful coloring; such clothes being absolutely requisite
to maintain our assumed character. Mine was that of a native travelling
doctor, a quack if you will; and accordingly a tolerable dress was
indispensable for the credit of my medical practice. My comrade, who in
a general way passed for my brother-in-law, appeared sometimes as a
retail merchant, such as not unfrequently visit these countries, and
sometimes as pupil or associate in my assumed profession.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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