Travels in Central Asia: Being the Account of a Journey from Teheran Across the Turkoman Desert on the Eastern Shore of the Caspian to Khiva, Bokhara, and SamarcandVámbéry, Ármin
History
Travels in Central Asia: Being the Account of a Journey from Teheran Across the Turkoman Desert on the Eastern Shore of the Caspian to Khiva, Bokhara, and Samarcand
Vámbéry, Ármin
Asia, Central -- Description and travel; Vámbéry, Ármin, 1832-1913 -- Travel -- Asia, Central
My words seemed to have given satisfaction, for his royal highness was
pleased to order that I should be presented with twenty ducats and a
stout ass. I declined the ducats with the remark that for a Dervish it
was a sin to keep money; thanked him, however, warmly for the second
part of his most gracious favour, but begged permission to draw his
attention to the holy commandment which prescribed a white ass for
pilgrimages, and entreated him therefore to vouchsafe me such a one. I
was on the point of withdrawing when the Khan desired that, at least
during my short stay in the capital, I should be his guest, and
consent to take for my daily board two Tenghe (about one franc and
fifty centimes) from his Haznadar. I thanked him heartily, concluded
by giving my blessing, and withdrew. I hurried home through the waving
crowds in the forecourt and the bazaar, whilst all encountered me with
the respectful 'Selam Aleïkum.' When I found myself again alone within
the four walls of my cell I drew a long breath, not a little pleased
to find that the Khan, who in appearance was so fearfully dissolute,
and who presents in every feature of his countenance the real picture
of an enervated, imbecile, and savage tyrant, had behaved to me in a
manner so unexceptionable; and that, so long as my time permitted, I
could now traverse the Khanat in all directions unmolested. During the
whole evening I had floating before me the picture of the Khan with
his deep-set eyes, with his chin thinly covered with hair, his white
lips, and trembling voice. 'What a happy fatality,' I repeated to
myself, 'that gloomy superstition often imposes limits to the might
and blood-thirstiness of such tyrants!'
As I proposed making extensive excursions into the interior, I was
desirous as far as possible to shorten my stay in the capital. What
was most worth seeing {131} might quickly be despatched, had not
repeated invitations of the Khan, of the officials, and of the most
distinguished of the mercantile community, robbed me of so much time.
After it was known that I shared the favour of royalty, everybody
wanted to have me as guest, and with me all the other Hadjis. What a
torture this to me, to have daily to accept six, seven, or eight
invitations, and to comply with the usage by taking something in every
house. My hair stands on end at the recollection how often I was
forced to seat myself, between three and four o'clock in the morning,
before sunrise, opposite a colossal dish of rice swimming in the fat
of the sheep tail, which I was to assail as if my stomach was empty.
How, upon such occasions, I again longed for the dry unleavened bread
of the desert, and how willingly I would have exchanged this deadly
luxury for wholesome poverty!
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