Burckhardt, John Lewis, 1784-1817; Nile River Valley -- Description and travel; Nubia -- Description and travel
should any European be inclined to make the same journey hereafter,
he may procure at Derr as many guards to accompany him as he chooses,
provided he previously arranges matters with the governors of Nubia.
At eight hours and a half we issued from the mountains, and crossing
a sloping plain, arrived, at the end of nine hours and a half, at
the side of the river. The country opens here, and the eastern chain
continues at about two miles distance from the river. At ten hours
and a half, we halted for the night in a thick grove of tamarisk
trees, opposite a long island, upon which are several brick ruins,
and a tower of the same material. The ruins of a small village
are upon the east bank: the place is called Wady Okame (عقمه);
and here the dominions of the governor of Sukkot begin, although
the Wady is considered to belong to the Batn el Hadjar. Close to the
spot on which we slept is the tomb of a saint, Sheikh Okashe (شيخ
عُقاشه), much revered by the Nubians. Offerings of earthen
vessels, mats, and small pieces of linen, were spread within the
enclosure of the tomb, and all around it. The inhabitants of Sukkot
make frequent pilgrimages to this tomb. My guide, in constant dread
of the Sheygya, would not allow me to light a fire, although the
nights were now very cold.
_March 10th._ After a ride of two hours over low hills, in
a S. S. W. direction, we arrived opposite the island of Kolbe
(قُلبه), the northern extremity of Sukkot, and the residence
of the governor of that district;[31] the island is about one hour
in length: the shore, on both sides, is hemmed in by huge masses of
gray granite. Here some regular cultivation commences. I had a letter
of recommendation from Hassan Kashef to the governor, who is an old
man, named Daoud (David) Kara, distantly related to the three chief
governors of Nubia, under whose control he holds his district. Being
desirous of paying him a visit, in order to gain some information
from him respecting the state of things farther southward, I left
my guide to watch the camels, and with some Arabs, who had arrived
at the place where we alighted, crossed the river upon a Ramous
(راموس). This kind of ferry boat is formed of four trunks of
date-trees, tied loosely together, and is worked by a paddle about
four feet in length, forked at the upper extremity, and lashed to
the raft by ropes of straw. It precisely resembles those which are
represented on the walls of the Egyptian temples. Persons who trust
themselves upon such frail vehicles should be able to swim, for
as these people have no idea of skulling, and use only one paddle
to each Ramous, they row alternately to leeward and windward,
so that the Ramous is never directed towards the shore. The old
governor received me coolly; “This is not a country,” he said,
“for people like you to travel in, without being accompanied by
caravans.” I requested a letter of introduction to his son, who
governs the southern parts of Sukkot, when he caused his scribe[32]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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