Burckhardt, John Lewis, 1784-1817; Nile River Valley -- Description and travel; Nubia -- Description and travel
“Peace be with you, you are welcome among us, how are you? God send
you a happy evening, &c. &c.” were compliments which every one whom
we approached addressed to us. We were treated by several merchants
with pipes, coffee, ice-water, and Bour, which latter drink is
water mixed with the juice of liquorice. The ice is brought from the
mountains three days journey distant, at the price of three piastres
for about five pounds. A tolerable singer sung some Turkish airs,
and accompanied himself upon a sort of mandoline. Many questions
were addressed to me about my person and affairs: my neighbour the
Tripoline took the trouble of answering them to the satisfaction of
the company. “Allah Kerim,” “God is great,” was their usual
exclamation at hearing that I came from so far. We retired rather
late: for my part I had been much entertained with the party. We went
to sleep before the door of our room, upon a covered terrace built
of wood, which runs along the interior circuit of the Khan. Before
sun rise every body was up; some of the merchants descended into
the court yard to perform at the fountain the ablutions which
are prescribed to the Musselman after his night’s rest. But in
this part of their religious rites, as well as in the performance
of their daily prayers, I observed much indifference amongst the
plurality of the Turks I saw here, as well as of those with whom I
travelled afterwards from Suedieh to Aleppo. Amongst the latter were
many who, during eight days, did not pray once: even two Hadjis, who
had performed the Mekka pilgrimage, were of that number. Some would
pray once, others twice a day, before sun rise, and after sun set;
only three or four of the caravan were strict in regularly chaunting
the three daily prayers, to which number the Koran limits the duty
of travellers; but I did not find that more respect or deference
was paid to them than to the others.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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