Burckhardt, John Lewis, 1784-1817; Nile River Valley -- Description and travel; Nubia -- Description and travel
On the following day the Tripoline rejoined us; he had taken, to
my great satisfaction, a passage for me on board a Greek sailing
boat from Tripoli of Syria.[2] That vessel was at anchor at Casal,
and according to its master’s affirmation was bound for Latikia,
which was exactly the place where I wished to land. I left our
ship on the second of July; in taking leave of the Tripoline I took
off my sash, a sort of red cambric shawl, of Glasgow manufacture,
which he had always much admired, thinking it to be Indian stuff,
and presented it to him as a keepsake or reward for his good
services. He immediately unloosened his turban, and twisted the
shawl in its stead round his head: making me many professions
of friendship, and assuring me of his hospitality, if ever the
chance of mercantile pursuits should again engage me to visit the
Mediterranean, and perhaps Tripoli in Barbary. The time I hope
may come, when I shall be enabled to put his assurances to the
test. (I think I forgot to mention, that the Tripoline was much
skilled in languages, which enabled me freely to converse with
him; besides his native Arabic tongue, he spoke Turkish, Greek,
and Italian.) The vessel on board of which I now embarked, was an
open boat with three masts, about thirty-five feet long, and nine
broad, much resembling the representation of the Germs of the Nile,
which Bruce and other travellers have given. These vessels are very
common on the Syrian coast; where they are called Jackdur. I had
engaged to pay for my passage twenty-five piastres, at my arrival
in Latikia, but was no sooner with my baggage on board, than the
master informed me that he meant to proceed to Antakia (Antiochia)
not to Latikia, and that I was at liberty to return to my own ship,
if I did not choose to go his way. I thus found myself duped a
second time, though I had most distinctly agreed for my passage to
Latikia. However, there being no other conveyance to the coast of
Syria at hand, I resolved to remain on board. I was afraid of being
kept in these parts, until after the return of my old ship for Malta;
when I should have nobody to recommend me to those, in whose company
I might continue my way; I knew moreover, that there was a brisk
intercourse between Antakia and Aleppo. There had not been for some
time, any opportunity from Tarsus to the opposite coast. A crowd of
passengers came therefore on board. I counted fifty-six men and women
lying upon deck, besides six sailors, and six horses in the ship’s
hold. We had each just as much space allowed, as the body covered,
and remained in this state two nights and one day. In general the
passage is performed within the twenty-four hours.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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