Burckhardt, John Lewis, 1784-1817; Nile River Valley -- Description and travel; Nubia -- Description and travel
From thence the road leads over a mountainous and rocky ground,
abounding with trees and springs. At the break of day we passed a
village and a considerable rivulet flowing towards our right; one
hour’s march further another rivulet; the country then opens,
and the traveller finds himself upon the ridge of a high plain,
encompassed by the two beforementioned chains of mountains, from
which he descends into the valley which the Aasi waters, and where
he finds Antakia very picturesquely situated, near the foot of
the southern chain of mountains, surrounded with gardens and well
sown fields. It was yet early in the morning when we passed the
river and entered the town; a strong built bridge leads over the
river immediately into the town gate. I was stopped at the gate,
and asked for one of the two pistols, which I wore in my girdle; I
had told the people of the caravan that they belonged to the English
Consul. My muleteer assured me that the pistol would be restored,
I therefore gave it up voluntarily, well convinced it would have
been forced from me against my will. The Aga’s man brought it back
in the evening, I was asked two piastres for the returning of it;
they had taken the flint, and the powder from the pan. Arrived at
Antakia, the muleteer led his mules to the Khan of the muleteers;
I might have gone to the Khan of the merchants, but having no body
to accompany me and introduce me there, I preferred staying with
the muleteers, whose way of living I also wished to see. The Khan
is a large court yard built in a triangular shape: the basis of the
triangle is distributed on both sides of the entrance door into
small dark cells, which serve as magazines for the goods, and as
places to cook in. On another side are the stables; and the whole
length of the third side is taken up by a terrace built of stone,
about four feet elevated from the ground, and eight feet broad,
where the muleteers eat, sleep, and pray, that side of the Khan being
built in the direction of Mecca. In the midst of the yard is a large
water bason, which affords drink to men and beasts indiscriminately.
My entrance into the Khan excited considerable curiosity, and the
little cell I took possession of was soon beset by troublesome
enquirers, who unanimously declared that I was a Frank come to the
country for evil purposes. I had nobody to take my part except my
muleteer, whose remonstrances in my behalf were soon lost in the
general cry of Djaour (infidel) raised by the other inhabitants of
the Khan and by the town’s people, who came to visit their friends.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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