Burckhardt, John Lewis, 1784-1817; Nile River Valley -- Description and travel; Nubia -- Description and travel
Whenever I could get any of them to listen to me for half an hour,
I found means to appease them, but the town’s people did not even
condescend to speak to me, and I evidently saw that their plan was
to make religion a pretext, for practising an avanie upon me. My
property fortunately was mixed with that of the Consul; a spare
shirt and a carpet constituted my whole baggage; besides a pocket
purse, containing the money necessary for my daily expenses, I had
about twenty sequins hidden upon me. The Aga of Antakia sent his
Dragoman to get something out of me. This was a wretched Frank,
who pretended to be a Frenchman, but whom I should rather suppose
to be a Piemontese. I pretended complete ignorance of the French
language, he therefore asked me in Italian minutely about my affairs,
and how I could attempt to travel home without any money or goods,
to defray the expenses of the journey. I answered that I hoped the
Consul, in remuneration of my having carefully watched his effects,
would pay the expense of a camel from Aleppo to Bagdad, and that
at the latter place I was sure of finding friends to facilitate
my farther journey. When the man saw that nothing in my manners
betrayed my Frank origin, he made a last trial, and pulling my
beard a little with his hand, asked me familiarly “Why I had let
such a thing grow?” I answered him with a blow upon his face, to
convince the by-standing Turks, how deeply I resented the received
insult; and the laugh now turned against the poor Dragoman, who
did not trouble me any farther. I am at a loss to state how far I
succeeded in sustaining my assumed character; I thought that the
major part of the caravan people were gained over to my side, but
the town’s people were constant in their imprecations against
me. I had been flattered with an immediate departure for Aleppo,
but the caravan was detained four days in the Khan. During the whole
time of our stay, I spent the day time in the cell of the goods,
amusing myself with cooking our victuals; the town’s people,
though often assembled before the door of the room, never entered it;
in the evening the gates of the Khan were shut, and I then went to
sleep with the muleteers upon the terrace.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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