Burckhardt, John Lewis, 1784-1817; Nile River Valley -- Description and travel; Nubia -- Description and travel
We marched the whole night of the 10th over a plain country,
and reached early the next morning Hamsin, a village situated at
nine hours march from Antakia, on the right bank of the Orontes. We
passed the river in a ferry boat: its banks on both sides are about
forty feet high at this place; its breadth is near fifty yards,
the depth no where more than five feet. On a little eminence a
few hundred paces from the ground on the river’s side where we
encamped, rises a spring of excellent water; my companions however,
drank of the muddy water of the Orontes, in preference to taking the
trouble of filling their flasks at the spring. One of the merchants
had a tent with him, under the shade of which we passed the whole
day. In the evening the village youths kindled a large fire, and
amused themselves with music and dancing. The next day we passed a
chain of calcareous mountains planted here and there with olives;
on the top of one of these mountains lives a custom-house officer,
who exacted a toll from each individual, as it was said, in the name
of the Grand Signior. The descent on the eastern side is steep,
but the mules walked with the greatest firmness. In the valley
into which we descended lies the town of Ermenaz (ارمناز,)
watered by several streams. Though small, it is one of the best
towns in this part of Syria; its gardens are cultivated with great
care, and its inhabitants are industrious, because they are out of
the immediate reach of rapacious Pashas and Janisaries. They work a
glass manufacture which supplies Aleppo. The olives of the country
round Aleppo are, next to those of Tripoly, the best in Syria:
its grapes are likewise much esteemed. As we rode by, I saw lying
on the right hand side of the road near the town, a broken ancient
column of about four feet in diameter, and I was told afterwards
in Aleppo, that many like remains of antiquity are to be met with
in the neighbourhood of Ermenaz. At half an hour’s distance from
this latter place we again began to mount, and the path became
difficult and tiresome for the beasts, from the number of detached
rocks with which it is overspread. After nearly eight hours march
(meaning the whole day’s work), we descended into the eastern
plain of Syria, and encamped at the foot of the mountains, round a
large tree in the vicinity of a copious spring. Whenever the beasts
were unloaden, it was with much difficulty that I could prevent my
luggage from being thrown upon the ground. The caravan people in
this country, and I should suppose every where else in the East,
are accustomed to loads of bales of goods, which do not receive any
injury from letting them fall to the ground. The loads on each side
of the beast are tied together over its back, by a cord. Arrived
at the halting place, the first thing the muleteer does, is to go
from mule to mule to unloosen that cord; the loads then fall to the
ground. This mode of unloading, and the great carelessness of these
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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