Burckhardt, John Lewis, 1784-1817; Nile River Valley -- Description and travel; Nubia -- Description and travel
people, render the transport of many European commodities utterly
impracticable, without their being accompanied by a servant sent
along with them, for the express purpose of taking off the loads. A
Frank merchant of Aleppo received some years ago a load of Venetian
looking-glasses which were all dashed to pieces. Provided the chests
which contain the merchandize be entire, the muleteer thinks himself
free from responsibility. We were joined in the evening by some other
travellers, whose curiosity led them to new inquiries about my person
and affairs. None of my companions had till now found out any thing
which could have directly inculpated myself; they however kept a
strict watch over all my motions: being obliged at night to go aside,
two of the travellers last arrived followed me unseen, and pretended
afterwards to have observed some irregularities in the ablutions
necessary to be performed on such occasions; in consequence of which,
I was told that I was “Harām,” or in a forbidden unclean state,
and notwithstanding every thing I said to defend and excuse myself,
I found that from that time I had lost the good opinion of all my
companions. We marched the next day six hours, and halted at Mart
Mesrin, a village belonging to Ibrahim Pasha, who in the time of
Djezar was Pasha of Aleppo, afterwards Pasha of Damascus, and who
lives now in disgrace and poverty at this place, the whole appearance
of which makes it probable, that in a few years hence it will be
deserted by its inhabitants. The wide extended plain over which
we marched this day consists almost throughout of a fertile soil,
but without any trees, and in most places uncultivated, but where
a number of ruined and deserted villages, indicate that many parts
of it must have formerly been cultivated. Having been much plagued
during this whole day by my fellow travellers, and in the evening
also by the peasants, who had collected round the caravan; I swore
that I would not eat any more with any of them. This declaration
being somewhat in the Arab style, they were startled at it; and my
muleteer especially much pressed me to rejoin their mess; I assured
him that I would rather eat nothing and starve, than have any further
friendly dealings with men who professed themselves my friends
one day, and proved my enemies the next, (it should be observed
that this was the last stage of our journey, I therefore did not
run great risk in making good my words). The tract of country over
which we passed on the following day was similar in appearance to
that which we had seen on the preceding. The number of deserted and
ruined villages increased the nearer we approached Aleppo; we had
marched about eight hours when we discerned the castle of Aleppo,
at the sight of which the armed horsemen of the caravan set off
at a gallop, and repeatedly fired off their guns; the merchants
put themselves ahead of the caravan and after one hour’s march
farther, we entered the town. All merchandizes coming to Aleppo must
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