Burckhardt, John Lewis, 1784-1817; Nile River Valley -- Description and travel; Nubia -- Description and travel
any further. Before I had arranged two smaller skins, had filled
them with the water of the large one, had tied ropes to them,
and had loaded them upon my ass, the caravan had gained a great
distance ahead, so that following their footsteps in the sand, I
could not rejoin them till late after sunset. It is in such cases
that the want of a servant or companion is chiefly felt; for slave
traders show no sort of compassion for the embarrassments of their
fellow creatures. We marched this evening about six hours, over stony
ground, and encamped late at night in Wady Kowa, (وادي كوع),
a valley full of pasturage. The direction during the day was S. by E.
_16th March._ After a few hours rest we again started. Our road lay
over a sandy flat. High mountains appeared far in the east. At the
end of three hours we halted in Wady Safyha (وادي صَفيحه),
which cannot properly be called a valley, being a strip of lower
land, running across the plain, where the rain water collects,
and produces some trees and shrubs. Such spots in the Arabian
deserts are called Ghadyr (غدير). After mid-day we continued
over the plain. During the whole day’s march we were surrounded
on all sides by lakes of mirage, called by the Arabs Serab. Its
colour was of the purest azure, and so clear that the shadows of
the mountains which bordered the horizon were reflected on it with
the greatest precision, and the delusion of its being a sheet of
water was thus rendered still more perfect. I had often seen the
mirage in Syria and Egypt, but always found it of a whitish colour,
rather resembling a morning mist, seldom lying steady on the plain,
but in continual vibration; but here it was very different, and had
the most perfect resemblance to water. The great dryness of the air
and earth in this desert may be the cause of the difference. The
appearance of water approached also much nearer, than in Syria
and Egypt, being often not more than two hundred paces from us,
whereas I had never seen it before at a distance of less than half a
mile. There were at one time about a dozen of these false lakes round
us, each separated from the other, and for the most part in the low
grounds. After about eight hours march we stopped at Wady Om Doum
(وادي اُم دوم). The name indicates the existence of Doum
trees, but I could see no trees of any kind. I have observed that
the vallies south of Omgat run generally from east to west, while
those to the north of that place were parallel to our route. Our
direction was still S. by E.
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