Burckhardt, John Lewis, 1784-1817; Nile River Valley -- Description and travel; Nubia -- Description and travel
_20th March._ Some of our people continued at work at the well the
whole night, and at length by great assiduity filled the water
skins. We left the place soon after midnight. Issuing from the
hills which surround the wells, and diverging from the straight
road that leads to Berber, we took our route over a barren plain
covered with moving sands, in a S. S. W. direction. At four hours
we passed Wady Holhob (وادي حُلهُب). All the Wadys south
of Shigre empty themselves in large torrents into the Nile whenever
rain falls in the eastern chain. The ground now became gravelly,
covered with small black flints and petrosilex, a dark expanse of
waste much resembling some parts of the desert of Tyh. No mountains
or hills are any where seen. Here and there only small rocks of
granite, quartz or sienite interrupt the dreary uniformity of the
plain. Fortunately for us we had northerly winds, but we suffered
nevertheless considerably from the heat. We drank only twice to
day, and our asses were put upon half allowance. At eleven hours we
halted in a Wady. I had a quarrel to day with a man of Daraou, who
accused me of having opened his water skin in the night, in order to
give my ass some water; he called me by the most insulting names,
pelted me with stones, and seemed to have succeeded in persuading
the whole caravan that I was guilty.
_21st March._ We set out after midnight, and marched over a sandy
ground. At three hours passed Wady Amour (وادي عامور). It
was a chilly night, and the heat of the preceding day had rendered
us still more sensible to the cold. Wady Amour is full of Sellam
trees and acacias, many of which were quite dried up: our people,
to warm themselves, set several of them on fire in passing along,
and the flames spreading over the valley, beautifully illuminated
the travellers and their frightened beasts. Issuing from the Wady
we again met with a gravelly plain, and some low grounds. In seven
hours passed a Wady of Sant trees. The heat was very great, and
the wind southerly; half a dozen asses had already broken down,
and their riders were obliged to walk over the burning plain. I had
not drank the whole day, but still gave my ass every now and then
a little water to keep up his spirits. At nine hours (direction
S. S. W.), reached Wady Abou Sellam (وادي ابو سِلَّم)
which abounds with Sellam trees. Here we stopped; for the beasts
were much fatigued, and there were many stragglers behind, whom we
might have lost in proceeding further. In order to spare my stock
of water, I had lived since quitting Shigre entirely upon biscuits,
and had never cooked any victuals; I now made another dinner of the
same kind, after which I allayed my thirst by a copious draught of
water, having in my skins as much as would serve me for another
draught on the morrow. We were all in the greatest dejection,
foreseeing that all the asses must die the ensuing day if not
properly watered, and none of the traders had more than a few
draughts for himself.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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