Burckhardt, John Lewis, 1784-1817; Nile River Valley -- Description and travel; Nubia -- Description and travel
no doubt, have been glad to see me undertake a journey of evident
peril, thinking that if I perished, they would be entirely rid of me,
for they could not divest themselves of some secret apprehensions
that, if I ever returned to Egypt, I should find means of being
revenged upon them for their behaviour towards me. Upon closer
enquiry, however, I found that this route is quite impracticable
for strangers; the people of Berber, even, are afraid to trust
themselves, except in large numbers, with the Bisharein, who will
kill their companions if they have a prospect of the smallest gain;
and persons recommended by the Mek himself are not more secure. The
traveller must always carry with him some little merchandize and
baggage, in order to barter on the road for provisions, and this
is more than sufficient to excite the cupidity of the Bisharein,
and render him the victim of their treachery. In the course of
my enquiries on this occasion, I was informed that, about five
or six years before, a man had reached Berber from Egypt, who was
supposed to be a Christian, because he made notes of his journey in
writing.[17] It was said that he made considerable presents to the
Mek, who strongly recommended him to a small party of Bisharein;
he set out for Souakin in their company, but was murdered by them
in the road, and on their return, a small present purchased their
peace with the Mek.
I heard afterwards that, about eight or ten years since, an avowed
Christian, who spoke very little Arabic, and passed Sennaar, in
his way from the north (I suppose from Egypt), was murdered by the
Arabs in the mountains between Sennaar and Abyssinia, but not in the
caravan route. When at Shendy, I enquired after such a traveller,
but nobody knew any thing of him. Had he come by the western caravan
route from Darfour and Kordofan, I think I must have heard of him,
because white people (and this person was said to be white) are
much more noticed in that quarter, than in the route from Egypt;
and he must have been seen by some of the Kordofan travellers,
with several of whom I became acquainted at Shendy. I did not hear
that he was seen writing a journal.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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