Burckhardt, John Lewis, 1784-1817; Nile River Valley -- Description and travel; Nubia -- Description and travel
The success of a traveller, in this part of the world, depends
greatly, I may say wholly, upon his guides and fellow travellers,
and their being well disposed towards him. If he is not thoroughly
acquainted with the language of the country it will be very difficult
for him to select proper persons for his guides or companions,
or to elude the snares laid for him by villainy or treachery; it
is in vain to suppose that fortune will throw in his way honest
or friendly people, who are too scarce ever to be calculated upon,
in preparing for a journey through these countries. The traveller
must consider himself as surrounded by some of the most worthless
of the human race, among whom he must think himself fortunate, if
he can discover any less depraved than the rest, whom he can place
some degree of confidence in, and make subservient to his views;
and which can only be done by identifying their interest with his
own safety. Above all, he must never be seen taking notes. I am
fully convinced, that if I had ever been detected by my companions
with my journal in my hand, it would have given rise to the most
injurious reports, and blasted all my hopes of success. While
travelling through the desert I took my notes with much more ease
than during my stay at Berber. Being mounted on a good ass, I used
to push on ahead of the caravan, and then alight under some tree,
or rock, where I remained, unobserved, apparently occupied only in
smoking my pipe, until the caravan came up; but at Berber, and at
Shendy also, I was often at a great loss how to withdraw from the
persons who surrounded me in the house where we lodged; and it was
unsafe to walk so far from the village into the fields, as not to
be observed. The having persons thus continually hanging about me,
was the most disagreeable circumstance attending my stay in these
countries. I might have escaped it in some measure, perhaps, by
taking a lodging for myself, which I could have readily procured,
but then I should have been entirely unprotected in the house of
a stranger, who might have proved worse even than my companions;
I should also have been unmercifully annoyed the whole day by
visitors begging presents, and the little baggage I had would have
been much less secure. On the contrary, by continuing to live with
my old companions from Daraou, my person was far less noticed than
if I had resided alone, my expenses were not so great, I acquired a
good deal of information as to the mode of carrying on the trade,
and found myself in some degree secure, by the respectability of
my companions, however little disposed they might be to protect or
favour me.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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