Burckhardt, John Lewis, 1784-1817; Nile River Valley -- Description and travel; Nubia -- Description and travel
and grow considerable quantities of onions, with which they supply
the Shendy market. Their huts are made of mats; I entered several
of them, but could not get a drop of milk without paying for it in
Dhourra. The road across the plain was much entangled with weeds,
and overhanging branches of acacia, which rendered the passage
somewhat troublesome to our loaded camels.
We rode for two or three hours in this fertile district, and then
entered again upon a sandy plain overgrown with large Syale trees,
where we stopped during the noontide hours, on the high banks of
the river, and watered our camels. Large flocks of storks passed
over our heads to the northward. At the end of seven hours from
our setting out in the morning we reached the extremity of the
sandy plain, where commences a tract called Boeydha (بويضه),
less extensive, but equally fertile with the plain preceding. It
contains many small hamlets, in which the houses consist generally
of one room only, serving for all purposes. Here are the salt-works
which supply the whole country as far as Sennaar with salt. The
earth, which for several miles round is strongly impregnated with
salt, is collected by the Arabs in heaps upon the side of the
road. The salt is separated from the earth by boiling in large
earthen vessels, and the saline part is then boiled a second time,
in smaller vessels. The salt is afterwards formed into small round
cakes about a foot in diameter, and three inches in thickness; it
is perfectly white, and has much the appearance of rock salt. About
a dozen cakes are packed together in a basket; four baskets make a
camel’s load. This salt constitutes a considerable branch of the
Shendy trade. The Sennaar merchants buy it in great quantities for
the Abyssinian markets, and exchange it in the mountains about Ras
el Fil, for slaves and gold. The works are the property of the Mek
of Shendy: there were about twenty boilers on the fire when I passed.
Just beyond the plain of Boeydha, where the road again enters a
barren sandy desert, stands a tall date-tree, the only one of its
species met with hereabouts, for no dates are grown anywhere from
Dóngola to Sennaar. The merchants hail this tree as a beacon which
marks the successful termination of their journey. Several people of
Shendy were waiting for us, to salute their acquaintances, and take
a look at the loads. As traders never enter Shendy in the day time,
we halted till sun-set, and then proceeded slowly towards the town,
which we reached after about nine hours march from our departure
from Djebail.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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