Burckhardt, John Lewis, 1784-1817; Nile River Valley -- Description and travel; Nubia -- Description and travel
I had the honour of writing to you from Damascus on the 15th of
August, 1810; soon after my arrival in that city from Palmyra. The
unsettled state of the government of Damascus obliged me to prolong
my stay there for upwards of six weeks. I again left it in the
middle of September to visit Baalbec and the Libanus. My route lay
through Zahle, a small but prosperous town on the western side of the
valley Bekaa, the ancient Coelosyria, and from thence to Baalbec,
where I remained three days; then to the top of the Libanus, the
Cedars and Kannobin, from whence following the highest summits of
the mountain, I returned to Zahle by the villages called Akoura
and Afka. Descending the Bekaa I proceeded to the Druse territory
of Hasbeya; this village is at the foot of Djebel el Shikh, or
Mount Hermon, and is famous for its wells of bitumen judaicum
and for the cinnabar found near it; from thence I went to Banias,
the ancient Cæsarea Philippi, where I saw some ruins, and copied
some inscriptions. At an hour’s distance from it is the source
of the river El Dhan (Jordan), in the plain of the Houle, or lake
Samachonitis. Three hours from it, upon the top of a mountain,
are the ruins of the ancient city of Boustra, mentioned in the holy
scriptures. I returned to Damascus over the chain of mountains called
Djebel Heish, which under the different names of Djebel Adjoulan and
Djebel Belkaa continues southerly along the eastern borders of the
Dead Sea. I remained this time only a fortnight at Damascus; it was
preparatory to an excursion into a region which till a few years ago
had never been visited by European travellers; I mean the country
called Haouran, the patrimony of Abraham, of which Dr. Seetzen,
the German traveller, had seen a part four years ago, previous to
his memorable tour round the Dead Sea. During a fatiguing journey
of twenty-six days I explored this country as far as a five days
journey to the south and south-east of Damascus; I went over the
whole of the Djebel Haouran, or mountain of the Druses, who have
in these parts a settlement of about twenty villages; I passed
Bosz ra (بُصره), a place likewise mentioned in the books
of Moses, and not to be confounded with Boustra, (بُستره);
I then entered the desert to the south-east of it, and returned
afterwards to Damascus through the rocky district on the foot of
the Djebel Haouran, called El Ledja. At every step I found vestiges
of ancient cities, saw the remains of many temples, public edifices,
and Greek churches, met at Shohbe with a well-preserved amphitheatre,
at other places with numbers of still standing columns, and had
opportunities of copying many Greek inscriptions which may serve
to throw some light upon the history of this almost forgotten
corner. The inscriptions are for the greater part of the Lower
Empire, but some of the most elegant ruins have their inscriptions
dated from the reigns of Trajan and M. Aurelius. The Haouran with
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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