Burckhardt, John Lewis, 1784-1817; Nile River Valley -- Description and travel; Nubia -- Description and travel
The most untoward circumstances have prevented until now my long
projected excursion into the desert towards the Euphrates. Since
my last, I have been continually endeavouring to find means to
re-enter the desert, with some degree of security, but the state
of the country has always thrown insurmountable obstacles in my
way. The neighbourhood of Aleppo has been infested since spring,
until about a month ago, by great numbers of Aenezy Arabs, who had
declared war against the towns people as well as against the Manali
Arabs, who are looked upon as the hereditary friends of the Aleppo
government. The Aenezy have ruined about forty villages, have eaten
up the whole harvest of the open country, and have rendered the roads
so insecure that nobody dares travel but in the company of a large
caravan. I repeatedly tried to take some of the Aenezy for my guides,
and had chosen one from each of the principal tribes who surrounded
Aleppo, as the only means left to me to execute my design; but the
exorbitant demands of these people greatly exceeded my powers, and
I was moreover informed that the Aenezy had declared war upon the
Arabs of the Zor, or valley of Euphrates, which was exactly the
country I wished to visit; I was therefore obliged to wait till
the Aenezy should have retired from this neighbourhood. It is now
about a month since they returned into the interior of the desert,
to meet the autumnal rains; and I am now on the point of setting
out. A caravan arrived here a few days ago from Sokhne, a village in
the desert, five days journey from hence on the Bagdad route. The
people of that village, together with the inhabitants of Tedmor
or Palmyra, bring to Aleppo once or twice every year alcali, which
they collect in the desert. The day after tomorrow the caravan is to
return to Sokhne, and I intend to proceed with it in order to visit
from thence Deir, the ancient Thapsacus, and several ruined places
which I have heard much spoken of. I intend to return if possible
along the shores of the Euphrates, although I am afraid that the
eternal quarrels of the Arabs of the Zor may put many obstacles in
my stay. The Shikh of Sokhne, to whom I am strongly recommended,
and to whom I carry some small presents, is a powerful man in those
parts, and will certainly take care of my safe return to Aleppo;
I shall then only remain as long in Aleppo as will be necessary to
copy my Journal and put it in order, and proceed to Damascus, to
trace my way from thence into Egypt round the Dead Sea. My present
tour will take up about seven or eight weeks.[6]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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