Burckhardt, John Lewis, 1784-1817; Nile River Valley -- Description and travel; Nubia -- Description and travel
My time at Aleppo has been exclusively taken up in endeavours to
enlarge my knowledge of Arabic. I have completed the perusal of
several of the best Arabic authors, prosaic writers as well as
poets; I have read over the Koran twice, and have got by heart
several of its chapters and many of its sentences; I am likewise
nearly finishing a thorough course of the precepts of the Mohammedan
religion, a learned Effendi having taken upon himself the task of
explaining to me the book of Ibrahim Halebi on the religious laws
of the Turks. This is the book upon which D’Ohsson has grounded
his excellent work.
There is no kind of political news in these parts. It is a long time
since we have heard of the Wahabi. Aleppo continues in the hands
of the Janissaries, but it is said that Gharib Pasha, whom the
Porte has lately named Pasha of Aleppo, is collecting in Anatolia
a considerable force to subdue these rebels. Damascus, Tripoli,
and Acre, are completely under the dominion of Soleiman Pasha,
but it is known that Mohammed Aly, Pasha of Egypt, spares neither
intrigues nor money to dispossess Soleiman at least of one of his
Pashaliks. The pilgrimage from Damascus to Mecca is again put off
for another year. There is a great scarcity all over Syria; wheat
has risen to an exorbitant price, and the two last years having
been remarkably dry, almost every kind of vegetable has failed. The
same quantity of wheat which at the time of my arrival at Aleppo
sold for six piastres and a half, is now worth twenty-seven. Such
scarcity makes travelling much less pleasant, and the natives much
less inclined to forward the stranger’s purposes.
_Damascus, May 30_, 1812.
The last, which I had the honour to address you, was from Aleppo. It
was accompanied by a large chest of Arabic manuscripts. Incessant
rains delayed my departure from Aleppo, until the 14th of
February. I arrived on the 3d of March at Tripoli, and on the 22d
at Damascus. Being very desirous of visiting the Haouran once more
before I should leave Syria, in order to examine those parts which I
had not been able to see during my first tour through that country,
I set out with this object, as soon as I was satisfied of the
tranquil state of the Pashalik. I left this city on the 21st April,
and returned to it on the 9th May. One of the packets of papers
herewith inclosed contains my notes on this journey through the
Haouran, and part of the ancient Decapolis; the second consists of my
observations during the previous journey from Aleppo to Damascus. The
third paper contains corrections and annotations to the description
of Bedouin manners, which I hope has long since reached you.
I intend to set out from hence in a few days. It is my wish to
proceed along the eastern borders of the Dead Sea into Arabia
Petræa, to visit there if possible, some unknown districts, and
to make my way from thence straight to Cairo.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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