Burckhardt, John Lewis, 1784-1817; Nile River Valley -- Description and travel; Nubia -- Description and travel
and its chief is a leading character in the affairs of the deserts
of southern Syria; he commands about 1200 match-locks, which are
the terror of the neighbouring Arab tribes. About 200 families
of Greek Christians, of whom one third have entirely embraced the
nomade life, live here distinguished only from their Arab brethren
by the sign of the cross. The treachery of the Shikh of Kerek, to
whom I had been particularly recommended by a grandee of Damascus,
obliged me to stay at Kerek above twenty days. After having annoyed
me in different ways, he permitted me to accompany him southward,
as he had himself business in the mountains of Djebal, a district
which is divided from that of Kerek by the deep bed of the torrent
El Ansa or El Kahary, eight hours distant from Kerek. We remained
for ten days in the villages to the north and south of El Ansa,
which are inhabited by Arabs, who have become cultivators, and
who sell the produce of their fields to the Bedouins. The Shikh
having finished his business, left me at Beszeyra, a village about
sixteen hours south of Kerek, to shift for myself, after having
maliciously recommended me to the care of a Bedouin, with whose
character he must have been acquainted, and who nearly stripped me
of the remainder of my money. I encountered here many difficulties,
was obliged to walk from one encampment to another, until I found at
last a Bedouin, who engaged to carry me to Egypt. In his company I
continued southward, in the mountains of Shera, which are divided to
the north from Djebal by the broad valley called Ghoseyr, at about
five hours distance from Beszeyra. The chief place in Djebal is
Tafyle, and in Shera the castle of Shobak. This chain of mountains
is a continuation of the eastern Syrian chain, which begins with the
Anti-Libanus, joins the Djebel el Shikh, forms the valley of Ghor,
and borders the Dead Sea. The valley of Ghor is continued to the
south of the Dead Sea; at about sixteen hours distance from the
extremity of the Dead Sea, its name is changed into that of Araba,
and it runs in almost a straight line, declining somewhat to the
west, as far as Akaba, at the extremity of the eastern branch of the
Red Sea. The existence of this valley appears to have been unknown
to ancient as well as modern geographers, although it is a very
remarkable feature in the geography of Syria, and Arabia Petræa,
and is still more interesting for its productions. In this valley
the manna is still found; it drops from the sprigs of several trees,
but principally from the Gharrab; it is collected by the Arabs,
who make cakes of it, and who eat it with butter; they call it Assai
Beyrouk, or the honey of Beyrouk. Indigo, gum arabic, the silk tree
called Asheyr, whose fruit encloses a white silky substance, of which
the Arabs twist their matches, grow in this valley. It is inhabited
near the Dead Sea in summer-time by a few Bedouin peasants only, but
during the winter months it becomes the meeting place of upwards of
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