Burckhardt, John Lewis, 1784-1817; Nile River Valley -- Description and travel; Nubia -- Description and travel
a dozen powerful Arab tribes. It is probable that the trade between
Jerusalem and the Red Sea was carried on through this valley. The
caravan, loaded at Eziongeber with the treasures of Ophir, might,
after a march of six or seven days, deposit its loads in the
warehouses of Solomon. This valley deserves to be thoroughly known;
its examination will lead to many interesting discoveries and would
be one of the most important objects of a Palestine traveller. At
the distance of a two long days journey north-east from Akaba, is
a rivulet and valley in the Djebel Shera, on the east side of the
Araba, called Wady Mousa. This place is very interesting for its
antiquities and the remains of an ancient city, which I conjecture
to be Petra, the capital of Arabia Petræa, a place which, as far
as I know, no European traveller has ever visited. In the red sand
stone of which the valley is composed, are upwards of two hundred
and fifty sepulchres entirely cut out of the rock, the greater
part of them with Grecian ornaments. There is a mausoleum in the
shape of a temple, of colossal dimensions, likewise cut out of the
rock, with all its apartments, its vestibule, peristyle, &c. It is
a most beautiful specimen of Grecian architecture, and in perfect
preservation. There are other mausolea with obelisks, apparently in
the Egyptian style, a whole amphitheatre cut out of the rock with
the remains of a palace and of several temples. Upon the summit of
the mountain which closes the narrow valley on its western side,
is the tomb of Haroun (Aaron, brother of Moses). It is held in
great veneration by the Arabs. (If I recollect right, there is a
passage in Eusebius, in which he says that the tomb of Aaron was
situated near Petra.) The information of Pliny and Strabo upon the
site of Petra, agree with the position of Wady Mousa. I regretted
most sensibly that I was not in circumstances that admitted of
my observing these antiquities in all their details, but it was
necessary for my safety not to inspire the Arabs with suspicions
that might probably have impeded the progress of my journey, for I
was an unprotected stranger, known to be a townsman, and thus an
object of constant curiosity to the Bedouins, who watched all my
steps in order to know why I had preferred that road to Egypt, to
the shorter one along the Mediterranean coast. It was the intention
of my guide to conduct me to Akaba, where we might hope to meet with
some caravan for Egypt. On our way to Akaba we were however informed
that a few Arabs were preparing to cross the desert direct to Cairo,
and I preferred that route, because I had reason to apprehend some
disagreeable adventures at Akaba, where the Pasha of Egypt keeps a
garrison to watch the Wahabi. His officers I knew to be extremely
jealous of Arabian as well as Syrian strangers, and I had nothing
with me by which I might have proved the nature of my business in
these remote districts, nor even my Frank origin. We therefore joined
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