Burckhardt, John Lewis, 1784-1817; Nile River Valley -- Description and travel; Nubia -- Description and travel
I am returned to this place from a journey up the Nile, which has
carried me into the vicinity of Dóngola. In my last letter from
Cairo, I informed you of my projects relative to this excursion,
and I am now happy to say, that I have succeeded almost to the
full extent of my wishes. I left Cairo on the 11th of January,
accompanied by a trusty servant, a native of Siout. We were
both mounted upon asses which, besides our persons, carried
the little baggage I thought necessary to take with me. I was
furnished with the strongest letters of recommendation to all the
governors of Upper Egypt, besides which, Mohammed Aly Pasha had
given me a private letter of introduction to his son Ibrahim Beg,
who commands in Upper Egypt. I was, however, so lucky as never
to have occasion to make use of these letters; nothing unpleasant
occurred to me during my route through Egypt, and when such is the
case it is always better to keep clear of Turkish governors. The
canals of Egypt were dried up; I therefore prosecuted my journey
without any difficulty along the Nile’s western bank, sometimes
crossing over to the opposite side; and I arrived after twelve
days at Siout, having seen on my way the southern pyramids, and
the antiquities of Beni Hassan, Shikh Abade and Ashmouneyn. It had
been my intention to make from Siout an excursion into the Great
Oasis, which is not thoroughly known yet. Several circumstances
impeded my project; I should however have persisted had I not been
informed that the Siwah people are continually visiting the Oasis,
and I should not like to be afterwards recognised by them on my
way to Fezzan. I remained ten days at Siout, and continued then
my journey southwards; visiting on my way Gaou, Akhmym, Farshiout,
Dendera, Kenne, and Goft; and after four days stay at the different
villages, situated within the precincts of Thebes, I arrived at Esne
sixteen days after having left Siout. Esne is the last place of
note in Upper Egypt, it was therefore here that I was to make the
necessary preparations for my journey into Nubia. (...) I arrived
at Assouan on the 22nd of February. The Aga of Assouan procured
me a guide up to Derr, the chief place in Nubia. (...) It took me
four days and an half to reach Derr, which is about one hundred
and forty miles distant from Assouan. About fifty miles below that
place I fell in with two English gentlemen, Messrs. Legh and Smelt,
who had been up to Ibrim and were returning to Assouan, on board a
small ship they had hired there. I had already had the pleasure of
seeing them at Cairo and at Siout. (...) After three days journey
from Ibrim (which is only five hours distant from Derr), I reached
the second cataract at Wady Halfa. From thence in three days more
Sukkot, in travelling along the mountainous district called Batn el
Hadjar. (...) I passed the large island called Say, and from thence,
at the end of two days more, arrived at Tinareh, a small castle,
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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