Burckhardt, John Lewis, 1784-1817; Nile River Valley -- Description and travel; Nubia -- Description and travel
the chief place in the country of Mahass, which I calculate to be
at four hundred and thirty, or four hundred and fifty miles above
Assouan. (The above mentioned distances are dromedary’s days of
thirty miles each.) From Tinareh to the northern limits of Dóngola
are two and a half days journey. (...) I returned by the same way
to Sukkot, swam here my camels across the river, in order to see
the western bank, which I continued to follow until I again crossed
to the eastern bank, a few miles above Philæ.
I returned to Assouan on the 31st of March, seventeen days after
my departure from Tinareh, and thirty-five days after my setting
out from Assouan; during which time I had only allowed myself a
single half day’s rest at Derr. So far my personal story through
Nubia. The enclosed journal contains my observations during the
journey; I must solicit your indulgence for the rude manner in
which it is written. It is certainly not as I wish it to be, nor
as it should have been, had I been at my leisure and ease. It has
been written in a miserable court-yard, on the side of my camel,
under the influence of the hot Kamsin winds, which now reign in
Upper Egypt. I have suffered also from a strong inflammation in my
left eye, which has become still worse by writing, and which makes
writing painful to me.
I have been now for these last three weeks at Esne, waiting for
the departure of a Sennaar caravan, which is to set out in a few
days from Daraou, about sixty miles south of this place, whither
I shall without delay proceed. For I have conceived the project of
making a journey on that side of Africa, before I begin my western
tour. I wish to visit the shores of the Astapus or Astaboras, on my
way from Gous towards Massuah; which harbour I should thus reach by
a northern road, different from that of Bruce. The road from Egypt
to Gous is perfectly safe. I am well recommended to the people
in power at Gous and Damer; from whence there is a practicable
road eastward into Abyssinia. It is not my intention to make any
stay in Abyssinia whatever; not holding myself at all qualified
for travels in those parts; but up to the frontiers of Abyssinia
Arabic is spoken, and wherever that is the case I hope to be able
to penetrate with some advantage to science. From Massuah I shall
proceed to Djidda, or to Mokka, and return without delay, by land,
along the eastern shore of the Red Sea, to Cairo. I hope to be in
Cairo again in ten months. If I supposed that this journey presented
great risks I should not undertake it; for I wish to expose myself
to hazards only on the western side of Africa, but there is only a
distance of twenty days (from Gous to Massuah), which presents any
difficulties; of these twenty days, fourteen (from Gous to Taka)
are by caravan routes; there remain six days from Taka to Massuah,
where it will be necessary to join the Bedouins, in order to have
any security on the road. Travelling in Arabia, few parts excepted,
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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