Burckhardt, John Lewis, 1784-1817; Nile River Valley -- Description and travel; Nubia -- Description and travel
Its King is tributary to the King of Sennaar, as are likewise all
the petty rulers down the river as far as Dóngola; it would have
been easy for me to proceed to Sennaar, nine days journey distant
from Shendy, and from thence into Abyssinia, following Bruce’s
track. But I wished to visit unknown districts, and I was convinced,
from what I had already experienced, that a tour through those
countries would be attended with expenses, which I was little able
to bear. When I left Egypt, I had only sixty dollars, and an ass to
carry me; not having thought proper to lose the opportunity of the
caravan, for the sake of the supply of money which I expected from
Cairo. Twenty-five dollars were spent in the way to Shendy. I was
thus much straitened, and I had scarcely enough left to buy a slave,
a camel, and the necessary provisions for my journey to the Red
Sea. From Shendy I proceeded towards the river Atbara (Astaboras),
whose fertile banks are cultivated by the Arabs Bisharein. I followed
that river in a S. S. E. direction for about one hundred and twenty
miles as far as Goz-Radjeb, a place under the dominion of Sennaar,
five days journey distant from it. The course of the Astaboras, as
well as that of the Astapus (now called Mogren), is very erroneously
laid down upon the maps. From Goz I reached the country of Taka,
a low ground of four or five days journey in length, and two days
in breadth, which is regularly inundated by torrents, rushing down
from the Abyssinian mountains; and which produces a rich crop of
Dhourra. I had hoped to cross the mountains from hence to Massuah,
on the Abyssinian sea coast; but I found, notwithstanding the
information given to me at Shendy, that there is no commercial
intercourse between the two places. The infamous treachery of the
Arabs Hadendoa, Melykenab, and Hallenga, who inhabit Taka and the
southern mountains, renders it impossible to proceed alone, with
any baggage of the smallest value, and the total want of hospitality
among all the Arabs of these parts forbids any attempt to travel as a
Derwish or beggar. After a ten days stay amongst the Arabs Hadendoa,
I left Taka for Souakin, which place draws its whole supply of corn
from Taka. The rains began to set in; a high chain of mountains,
midway between Taka and Souakin, divides the climate; to the south
of this chain, we had every night heavy showers, to the north, the
season of the hot winds had begun, and the rains were not expected
until September. Thirteen days from Taka we reached Souakin. The
Turkish governor of that place was going to seize me, supposing me
to belong to the Mamelouks of Dóngola; fortunately I had an old
Firman of the Pasha of Egypt with me, the producing of which saved
me from prison, and procured me a free passage on board a country
boat to Djidda, where I arrived in good health on the 20th of July.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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