Burckhardt, John Lewis, 1784-1817; Nile River Valley -- Description and travel; Nubia -- Description and travel
It is now my intention to visit the principal places of the Hedjaz,
to perform the Hadj, or pilgrimage to Mekka, and then to return
to Cairo by land. I shall send to England the journal of my late
tour, together with that of the Hedjaz, after my return to Cairo,
not being at present at liberty to write much.
The Pasha of Egypt is in possession of all the principal towns of
the Hedjaz, but whenever he has endeavoured to push on into the
interior, he has constantly been defeated by the Wahabi Arabs,
amongst whom a female chief, called Ghalye, whose residence is
in Taraba, eight days journey S. E. of Mekka, has particularly
distinguished herself. The chances however seem at present to
be greatly in favour of the Pasha. Saoud, the Wahabi chief, died
three months ago of illness; his son Abdallah, and his brother of
the same name, have been fighting for the succession, and have
both been killed in the civil war. The treasure of Saoud is now
in possession of the younger sons of Saoud, who are besieged at
Derayeh, the capital of Nedjed, by other branches of their family,
and several great Arab Shikhs. Many powerful Wahabi chiefs have come
over to the Pasha, who has thus been led to undertake an expedition
against Derayeh, and the Nedjed itself. At the moment I am writing,
Tousoun Pasha, the son of Mohammed Aly, is proceeding from hence to
Medina, in order to command the expedition which will take place as
soon as the rains have set in, and there is some reason to believe
that he will succeed in his project, although it is hardly to be
expected that the Turkish troops will be able to keep possession,
for any length of time, of those inland countries.
I am under great difficulties for a supply of money, the letter
of credit which I brought from Cairo not having been honoured,
under the pretext that it was dated eighteen months ago; it must
be confessed also that my torn clothes did not speak much in my
favour. Disappointed in all my endeavours to sell a bill upon Cairo,
I have addressed myself to the Pasha, Mohammed Aly himself, who is
now at Tayf, five days journey from hence. He knows me well, and
when at Cairo had often expressed himself in my favour. If he does
not comply with my wishes I shall be obliged to return forthwith
to Egypt, without performing the Hadj: which will not take place
for three months, for the Hedjaz is not the country where a man can
hope to travel gratis. Every thing is enormously dear at all times,
and in the time of the pilgrimage the prices are still higher.
P. S. August 9th. I have been so fortunate as to procure a supply
of money, by the means of Yahya Effendi, the physician of Tousoun
Pasha, a man educated in Europe, and who had known me at Cairo. He
received me with singular kindness, and as he was departing with
the Pasha for Medina, he was anxious to see me furnished with money
before he set out. The answer from Mohammed Aly has not yet arrived.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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