Burckhardt, John Lewis, 1784-1817; Nile River Valley -- Description and travel; Nubia -- Description and travel
During my stay here, I have succeeded in equipping myself thoroughly
in the Oriental fashion. The dress I have taken is somewhat Syrian,
yet sufficiently differing from the real Syrian costume, to shew
that I have no wish of passing for a native. I have practised as
much as was in my power the speaking of Arabic, and have reason
to believe that none of my secrets have transpired. I have lived
out of the way of intruders, and of being taken notice of, in the
lodgings of Lieutenant Corner of the navy, Harbour-master, to whom,
as well to Mr. Chapman, the Public Secretary, and Mr. Peter Lee,
I am under infinite obligations for the help and advice which
they have given me. Sir Alexander Ball has been very kind to me
upon every occasion, and seemed much interested in the success of
my travels. Circumstances would not allow me often to call at the
palace, which his friendly and instructive conversation, whenever
I did call, rendered a matter of great regret to me. (...)
A singular misrepresentation prevails in Europe respecting this
island, namely, that the greater part of the soil is imported from
Sicily; and it has even been said, that by these importations the
soil is completely renewed every ten years. I believe it would be
difficult to produce a single instance of earth having been brought
over from Sicily. To make the soft and friable limestone, of which
the island consists, fit for agriculture, they break through it to
the depth of twelve or fifteen feet. A sort of rough cistern from
six to eight feet high, often running under the whole length of the
field, is then constructed with part of the stones which have been
taken out; large fissures are found in the rocks full of earth;
this is taken out, and is sufficient to cover the cistern to the
height of four or five feet; the rest of the stones are used for
buildings, and to construct a wall round the field, which prevents
the soil from being washed away by the torrents of rain in the
rainy season, at the same time that it shelters the fig and olive
trees planted within the wall from the violence of the wind. The
whole island is covered with these enclosed fields, whose soil is
very fertile. The mistaken notion alluded to, may arise perhaps
from the following circumstances. Ships and boats coming here from
Sicily often take in ballast at that island, consisting of sand,
mixed perhaps with some earth, which, when they arrive here, they
are obliged to carry to a particular part of the harbour, to prevent
its being thrown overboard and choaking the anchorage. Or perhaps
the frequent importation of terra puzzolana, which is in common
use to make cement, and which when landed may have been mistaken
for earth, may have given rise to the assertion.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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