Travels in southern Abyssinia, Volume 1 (of 2) : $b through the country of Adal to the kingdom of ShoaJohnston, Charles
History
Travels in southern Abyssinia, Volume 1 (of 2) : $b through the country of Adal to the kingdom of Shoa
Johnston, Charles
Ethiopia -- Description and travel; Shewa Kifle Hager (Ethiopia) -- Description and travel
Following Shurmalkee’s advice, we started, but certainly not to see the
town, though we passed through it; for with eyes bent upon the ground,
we carefully picked our way along the narrow street, not four feet wide,
the tops of the stinking skin wigwams and mat-huts presenting one
uniform dark level, just the height of our noses. The outskirts of the
town were equally offensive, but more particularly marked by the vast
quantity of bones of all eatable animals strewed about, and the vestiges
of numerous cooking fires, everywhere telling of the sites of former
houses, and that a few weeks before the fair must have been even more
extensive. About half a mile to the left of the town, on a slightly
elevated mound of sand and coral, was a ruined mosque, the only
appearance of a stone building in the neighbourhood. To this we
proceeded, our conversation turning upon the dirtiness of the town, its
low flat appearance from every point of view, the singular character of
its inhabitants, and the great importance Berberah might assume in the
possession of some highly civilized country, (we meant Britain, of
course,) as one point from whence to spread through Africa the benefits
arising from science, and the happiness attendant upon a knowledge of
the Christian faith.
Around the mosque were numerous graves, each consisting of a low heap of
stones in a line six feet long, enclosed in a large circle of single
stones, the diameter of which sometimes exceeded twenty feet. The
direction of the graves were due east and west, and a small space or
opening in the circle invariably to the south, formed a kind of entrance
into its area. They differed from the strictly Islam tomb in not having
the two little flat stones at the head and foot, in their less conical
form, and in the circular enclosure. Their vicinity to the ruined mosque
told, however, of the profession of the Islam faith during the life of
the deceased, whilst in the manner of the burial it appeared that
surviving friends had still adhered to the customs of their forefathers.
I might, too, have been mistaken in the real character of the building,
and that which I hastily concluded to be a mosque, may have been some
remains of a temple of the ancient faith professed by the Affah nation,
and which I believe was Sabianism.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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