Travels in southern Abyssinia, Volume 2 (of 2) : $b through the country of Adal to the kingdom of ShoaJohnston, Charles
History
Travels in southern Abyssinia, Volume 2 (of 2) : $b through the country of Adal to the kingdom of Shoa
Johnston, Charles
Ethiopia -- Description and travel; Shewa Kifle Hager (Ethiopia) -- Description and travel
Immediately after crossing the Airahra we commenced a most villanous
ascent. I believe that, to be in daily use, and traversed by hundreds
of individuals, the Tchakkah road is unequalled in the world for
steepness, roughness, and everything else that can contribute to make a
road difficult and unsafe. Now a brawling stream, rushing down into the
Airahra, covers with a slippery slime the bald face of the rock; here
loose crumbling stones treacherously detach themselves from beneath the
struggling hoofs of the mule; and there an actual cataract, of at least
eight feet high, has to be scrambled over, splashing through spray and
the flying gravel dislodged by the ascent. Zigzag parallels, as they
are termed in fortifications, are the exact description of the route we
took up the almost perpendicular cliffs; and our faces were alternately
turned nearly due north and south, as we succeeded in accomplishing
some ten or twelve yards in the traverse, at every turn we made,
peeping over into a deep abyss that yawned before us, and prevented
our ride from being extended longer in that direction. Often does the
merciful man here dismount from his tired mule, and sitting upon some
detached portion of rock, congratulate himself, as he gazes downward,
on having effected so much of his painful task; and as he looks upward
receives some encouragement to proceed, when he sees the reward
of perseverance, in the distant image of some preceding traveller
gradually rising in relief against the sky, then suddenly disappearing
over the lofty ridge where terminates his labour.
It took us one hour to surmount this awful steep, which, had it been
some thousand feet higher, might not, perhaps, have been unjustly
compared with similar passes among the Alps; but even then the
comparison would hold no longer than the ascent, for, arrived upon
the summit, the stranger finds no descent but an extensive table land
spread before him, and he cannot divest himself of an idea, that he has
reached some new continent. A Scotch climate, and Scotch vegetation,
wheat, barley, and linseed, and yet still in inter-tropical Africa;
he feels as if there must be some mistake, an idea of incongruity,
not unlike what I experienced upon seeing in a “united family of
animals,” several rats seeking a warm retreat beneath the fur of a cat.
Everything, in fact, was different to what I had expected, and the
nearly black skins of the natives that we met seemed to be unnatural in
a country where a chill breeze was blowing.
Koom Dingi, the resting-stone, is a solitary remaining hexagonal prism
of grey columnar porphyry, some few feet in height, and stands amidst
the fragments of others, very conspicuously on the extreme edge of the
Tchakkah. Here it is usual for the weary wayfarer after his ascent,
to stop and refresh himself with the bread no Abyssinian on a long
journey fails to provide himself with, and carries wrapt up in the long
mekanet, or girdle, that surrounds his loins.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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