Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
History
Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert), 1788-1863; Europe -- Description and travel; Middle East -- Description and travel
The usual sights of Constantinople in 1810 were the same as now--viz.
the dancing dervishes, the howling dervishes, the Turkish bath, and the
Sultan's visit to the Mosque. They are what every traveller has seen and
every young one thought it his duty to give an account of, and I shall
not transcribe Cockerell's description of them. Only the last can have
been at all different from what may be seen now. It was remarkable for
the startling costumes of the janissaries, and for the fact that instead
of a fez, the universal and mean headdress of to-day, every Turk wore a
turban, which made a crowd worth seeing. The janissaries wore a singular
cap, from the centre of which sprang a tree of feathers which, rising to
a certain height, fell again like a weeping willow and occupied an
enormous space. On these occasions about fifty of them surrounded the
Sultan with wands in their hands, and no doubt had a very striking
effect.
"I have made several useful friends. One is a brother artist, the Greek
who did the mosques for Canning. We have paid each other several visits,
and become fairly intimate by dint of dragoman, mutual admiration, and
what was a superb present from me, a little Indian ink and two English
pencils. He has been specially attentive in his visits here, hoping, as
he confessed, to find out some secret in the art from such a connoisseur
as myself. Another is an old gentleman in a long grey beard, who a few
days ago walked into my room, telling me he had been induced to call
upon me by hearing of my great reputation. He is an artist, and I showed
him my colours and instruments, with which he was greatly delighted. I
have not yet returned his visit, but I am shortly to do so, and he is to
introduce me to some houses out of which I can draw. I have found a most
elegant and useful friend in the Sicilian ambassador, who has many
beautiful books and drawings. The young men I chiefly live with are Sir
William Ingilby; Foster, an English architect, and a most amusing youth;
and a Mr. Charnaud, son of a consul at Salonica. We meet at dinner very
often, but they are all, even architect Foster, too idle to be
companions any further than that. If I chose I could make numbers of
acquaintance among the Greeks and Armenians, who all speak French.
Their ladies are very agreeable, but the information I should glean
amongst them would not pay for the time.
Canning is very much liked here among the merchants, though they say
they will never get such another man as Adair. For me he is rather too
grand to be agreeable.
This is a most interesting time among the Turks. All is bustle and the
sound of arms in every street. The Grand Signor is going to the Russian
war next week. His procession will, of course, be a grand sight, but
they despond throughout. The Turks have a prophecy that the empire will
expire with the last of the line of Mahomet, and the present Sultan has
no children.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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