Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
History
Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert), 1788-1863; Europe -- Description and travel; Middle East -- Description and travel
The number of troops passing to Adrianople is incredible, and such
barbarousness and total absence of discipline could, one would think,
never have been known even in the Crusades; but they are unbelievably
picturesque. A warrior disposed to defend his country (for none are
compelled; only, happily for the empire, the Turks are naturally
inclined that way) goes to the Government and demands whatever he thinks
will fit him out for the purpose. He gets 200 or 300 piastres, which is
to find him in arms and ammunition. These will consist of a brace of
pistols, a broadsword, and a musket, more often chosen for its silver
inlay than for its efficiency. He is confined to no particular dress.
He wears what he likes, and goes when and how he likes. The Government
finds him in provisions. One may see them everywhere about, reposing in
small parties in the shade or near a fountain and looking like banditti,
which, indeed, if they catch you out of sight of the town, they are.
They commit the most wanton cruelties and robberies in their march, and
at present there is no such thing as travelling in the country. As you
meet these independent ruffians in the street they look at you with the
most supercilious contempt and always expect you to make way for them.
Even yet the Turks have not lost the air of invaders, and look upon the
Greeks as conquered slaves, while these feel it as strongly as if they
had just lost their country. The other day I went to sketch some
antiquities under the walls. In the garden of a poor Greek we gathered
some fruit for which we meant to pay, but with the greatest kindness he
pressed us to eat more, and filled our pockets with cucumbers, saying we
were Christians, and he would take no money.
The English have the best reputation of any Franks in this country.
In walking out the other day our guide was insulted by a drunken
janissary. On the man's answering him the janissary came up, threatening
him with his sword. At this our man said he was surprised at such
behaviour to an Englishman; but the janissary declared he was a
Frenchman, and that unless he came and swept the street where he (the
janissary) sat we should not pass. Fortunately another janissary came
up, who was not drunk, and dragged him off, or there is no knowing how
the dispute would have ended. I hear a great deal of Sir Sidney Smith,
who, on account of his gallant co-operation with the Turks at Acre, has
gained the English much credit. Any Turk who has ever seen him is proud
of it, and whenever we meet a soldier the next question to whether we
are English is whether we know Sir Sidney Smith. I always say 'Yes,' to
which they say 'Buono.' The other day we overheard a Turk saying that
there were but two Generals in the world--Sir Sidney Smith and the
one-eyed captain (Lord Nelson). The Turks are so fond of Sir Sidney for
his wearing a Turkish dress, as well as for his gallantry, that he might
do what he pleased with them.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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