Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A. — John Shaqi
Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
History
Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert), 1788-1863; Europe -- Description and travel; Middle East -- Description and travel
To architecture in the highest sense, viz. elegant construction in
stone, the Turks have no pretension. The mosques are always copies of
Santa Sophia with trifling variations, and have no claim to
originality. The bazaars are large buildings, but hardly architectural.
The imarets, or hospitals, are next in size (there are about fifty of
them in Constantinople, in which D'Ohson says 30,000 people daily are
fed), but neither have they anything artistic about them.
The aqueducts, finally, are either reparations or imitations of old
Roman work.
These are all the buildings of a permanent character. The
dwelling-houses have the air of temporary habitations. They are
constructed mainly of wood, and are divided into very few chambers.
Turks eat and drink, live and sleep in one room. The sofa is their seat
and their bed, and when that is full they lay quilts, which are kept in
every room in cupboards, on the floor, and sleep about in them half
dressed. As ornaments to the walls they hang up their arms. They live in
this way even in the highest ranks. The men have no desire for privacy,
and the women's apartments are altogether separated off. The space
covered by each house is what we should consider immense. It has usually
only one storey--never more than two. The ground floor, used for
stables, storage, and offices, stands open on columns. A staircase,
often outside, leads up to an open balcony, out of which the effendi's
apartments open. These seldom consist of more than three--one for
audience and for living in; another for business, the secretary, &c.;
and the third for upper servants, the preparation of coffee, pipes, &c.
The harem, as I said, is parted off by a high wall with a separate
court, garden, and, often, exit to the street; but all one sees of a
house outside is generally a high wall and a capacious door into a court
with a hoodwink shade over it, and the gentlemen's apartments hanging
over one end of the premises. Sometimes there is a kiosk leading out of
the gallery to a rather higher level when there is a view to be got by
it, but externally there is nothing pretending to architectural effect
in the private house of a Turk.
The really ornamental buildings in which anything that may be called
Turkish architecture is displayed, are the fountains and the grand
kiosks or summer residences.
The fountains are commonly square reservoirs, the four sides enriched
with marble, carved, panelled, and gilt, with all the resources of
genuine Turkish taste. The forms are generally flowers and fruits and
texts from the Koran, with perhaps an inscription in memory of the
founder, such as 'Drink of my limpid waters and pray for the soul of
Achmet.' The tank is covered with a dome and gilt cullices with great
eaves which cast a broad shade over anyone who comes for water or
repose.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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