Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
History
Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert), 1788-1863; Europe -- Description and travel; Middle East -- Description and travel
But the most charming things are the kiosks. You can imagine nothing
slighter than their architecture is. They are entirely of wood, and
even the most extensive are finished in about two months. They display
the customs of the Sultans, and they are such as you might imagine from
reading the 'Arabian Nights'--golden halls with cupolas, domes and
cullices hanging over pools of water, with fountains and little falls of
water, all in the genuine Turkish taste.
Moreover, although it is a subject no one has hitherto condescended to
treat of, they do show an artistic taste in the cheerful disposition of
their apartments, gardens, courts, and fountains, which is worth
attention.
The rooms are all so contrived as to have windows on two sides at least,
and sometimes on three, and the windows are so large that the effect is
like that of a glass-house. The Turks seem to be the only people who
properly appreciate broad sunshine and the pleasure of a fine view.
Unfortunately, the Turkish, which is something like the Persian style,
only appears in the architecture. As to decoration, I was bitterly
disappointed to find that now they have no manner peculiar to themselves
of ornamenting these fanciful interiors. They are done in the old French
crinkum-crankum [? Louis XV.--_Ed._] style by rascally renegades, and
very badly.
On a green lawn, in a shady valley partly surrounded by fine trees,
partly hanging over the Bosphorus to catch the cool of the sea-breeze,
there stands one of the kiosks of the Sultan, a real summer-house
consisting of one room only, with several small entering rooms for the
Sultan, one for his suite and some small ones for service.
This is known as the Chebuble kiosk. In the valley near are various
marble columns put up to commemorate shots made by the Grand Signor in
practising at a mark.
Another we saw was the serai of the Sultan's sister. It was at the peril
of the poor gardener's head, and I was obliged to bribe him well for the
sight. I was able to make a running sketch of the place, and to glance
at the furnishing, which was all newly done up for the Sultana's
reception. The sofas were all splendidly embroidered by native
work-people, and there was a magnificent profusion of Lyons silk, the
colours and the gilding on the ceilings and walls as brilliant as you
can imagine. One room was entirely, as I was told, of gold plaque. There
was frosted and embossed work as a relief to the colours, and the
effect, if very gaudy, was striking. Generally this sort of splendour in
Turkey is expended on the carved ceilings, but in this case the sofas
and window frames were as rich as the rest, and the niches with shelves
for flowers on either side of the entrance.
The baths, which form a principal feature in every serai, are very
elegant here. The pavement, the fountains, and the pillars are all
marble, and carved and gilded and painted besides.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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