I should add that accounts of some of the episodes recorded in this Journal have seen the light already. For instance, the discovery of the Ægina Marbles and of the Phigaleian Marbles is narrated in my father's book, 'The Temples of Ægina and Bassæ,' and in Hughes's 'Travels' as well. Stackelberg gives his own account of the excavations at Bassæ in 'Der Apollotempel zu Bassæ &c.' So that I cannot flatter myself that the matter is either quite new or well presented. But in spite of these drawbacks I have thought the Journal in its entirety worth publishing. Sympathetic readers will find between the lines a fairly distinct picture of what travel was like in the early years of the last century, and also the portrait of a not uninteresting personality. SAMUEL PEPYS COCKERELL. CONTENTS CHAPTER I PAGE Leaves London for Plymouth--The despatch vessel--They take a French prize--The prisoners--An alarm--Cadiz--Malta--Life on board--The Dardanelles--Takes boat for Constantinople 1 CHAPTER II Constantinople--Capture of the _Black Joke_--Life in Constantinople--Its dangers--Friends--Audience of caimacam--Trip up the Bosphorus 13 CHAPTER III Constantinople continued--Dangers of sketching--Turkish architecture--A Turkish acquaintance--Society in Constantinople--Visit to the Princes' Islands 24 CHAPTER IV Leaves Constantinople--By Troy, Salonica, Mycone, Delos, to Athens--Life in Athens--Acquaintances--Byron, &c. 40 CHAPTER V Trip to Ægina--Discovery and transportation of the Marbles to Athens--Efforts to sell them 49 CHAPTER VI Life in Athens--Eleusis--Transportation of Ægina Marbles to Zante 59 CHAPTER VII Zante--Colonel Church--Leaves Zante to make tour of the Morea--Olympia--Bassæ--Discovery of bas-reliefs--Forced to desist from excavations 68 CHAPTER VIII Andritzena--Caritzena--Megalopolis--Benighted--Kalamata 79 CHAPTER IX Trip to Maina--Its relative prosperity--Return to Kalamata-- Second trip to Maina--Murginos--Sparta--Napoli to Athens 88 CHAPTER X Ægina Marbles called for by British Government ships--Leaves Athens for Crete and Egypt with Hon. Francis North--Canea--Condition of Crete--By land--Retimo--Kalipo Christo--Candia--Audience of the pasha--His band--The archbishop--The military commandant--Turkish society--Life in Candia 102 CHAPTER XI Expedition to the Labyrinth--Delli Yani--The interior--The return to Candia--Life there--Rejoins Mr. North--Bad weather--Expedition to Egypt abandoned--Scio--Leaves Mr. North to go to Smyrna--Storms--Danger and cold--Arrives at Smyrna 120 CHAPTER XII