Life in Smyrna--Trip to Trios--Foster falls in love--Cockerell starts alone for town of Seven Churches--Pergamo--Knifnich-- Sumeh--Commerce all in the hands of Greeks--Karasman Oglu--Turcomans --Sardis--Allah Sheri--Crosses from Valley of Hermus to that of the Meander--Hierapolis--Danger of the country--Turns westwards 134 CHAPTER XIII Back into civilisation--Nasli Bazar--Nysa--Guzul--Hissar (Magnesia)--The plague--Aisaluck (Ephesus)--Scala Nuova--A storm --Samos--Priene--Canna--Geronta--Knidos--Rhodes--Mr. North again--Sails for Patara--Castel Rosso--Cacava--Myra--The shrine of St. Nicolas--Troubles with natives--A water snake--Finica--Carosi-- Olympus--Volcanic fire--Phaselis--Falls in with the _Frederiksteen_ 153 CHAPTER XIV Adalia--Satalia (Sidé)--Alaia--Hostility of natives--Selinty--Cape Anemurium--Visit of a pasha--Chelindreh--Porto Cavaliero--Seleucia--A privateer--Natives hostile--Pompeiopolis--Tarsous--A poor reception--Explores a lake--Castle of Ayas--Captain Beaufort wounded by natives--Sails for Malta 173 CHAPTER XV Malta--Attacked by bilious fever--Sails to Palermo--Segeste--Leaves for Girgenti--Immigrant Albanians--Selinunto--Travelling with Sicilians--Girgenti--Restores the Temple of the Giants--Leaves for Syracuse--Occupations in Syracuse--Sale of the Ægina Marbles--Leaves for Zante 199 CHAPTER XVI Athens--The excavation of marbles at Bassæ--Bronstedt's mishap--Fate of the Corinthian capital of Bassæ--Severe illness--Stackelberg's mishap --Trip to Albania with Hughes and Parker--Thebes--Livadia--The five emissaries--State of the country--Merchants of Livadia--Delphi--Salona --Galaxidi--Patras--Previsa--Nicopolis--Arta--The plague--Janina 216 CHAPTER XVII Ali Pasha--Psallida--Euphrosyne--Mukhtar--Starts for a trip to Suli--Cassiopeia--Unable to ford river--Turns back to Janina--Leaves to return to Athens--Crosses the Pindus through the snow--Malakash --A robber--Meteora--Turkish rule--The monastery--By Trikhala, Phersala, Zituni, Thermopylæ and Livadia to Athens 235 CHAPTER XVIII Athens--To Zante for sale of Phigaleian Marbles--Returns to Athens--Fever--Spencer Stanhope--Trip to Marathon, &c.--Ramazan --Living out in the country--A picnic at Salamis--Presented with a block of Panathenaic frieze--Trip to Ægina--Leaves Athens for Italy 252 CHAPTER XIX Naples--Pompeii--Rome--The German Rester got rid of--Social success in Rome--Leaves for Florence--Bartholdy and the Niobe group--Lady Dillon--The Wellington Palace--Pisa--Tour in the north--Meets Stackelberg again--Returns to Florence and Rome--Homeward bound--Conclusion 269 FRONTISPIECE PORTRAIT OF C. R. COCKERELL, _after a Pencil Drawing by_ J. D. INGRES. TRAVELS IN SOUTHERN EUROPE AND THE LEVANT CHAPTER I