Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
History
Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert), 1788-1863; Europe -- Description and travel; Middle East -- Description and travel
It is not easy to get into any intimacy with Turks; but if I have not
seen much of their society, I have seen more than any of my
fellow-travellers have. With those who have no manners at all it is not
difficult to get acquainted. For instance, an imam (priest), a neighbour
of ours, often drops in at the dinner hour, taking compassion on me when
I am alone. He plays at billiards, drinks and swears, and is very
troublesome; but he has a great respect for my art, and my plans above
all things excite his astonishment. I scraped acquaintance, too, with a
Turk architect, in the hope of getting to see more palaces; but he also
is too great a rogue to keep company with, for he gets drunk and stabs
his friends; and as for his art he is not worth cultivating for that,
for it is confined to the chisel and mallet. And his promises are false
promises; for with all my hopes I have never got him to show me
anything. My specimen friend hitherto is Beki-Beki Effendi, who seems to
be a real Turkish gentleman. He had been brought up in the Seraglio as
one of the attendants on the Grand Signor, and his manners struck me as
very fine, having a cheerfulness and regard for his visitors, mixed with
great dignity. My host, who has already shown me great kindnesses,
presented me to him and explained my mission. He expressed himself much
pleased to be made acquainted with an English traveller, hoped I was
well, liked Constantinople, &c., and presented me with a little bottle
of oil of aloes, the scent of which was nice. We smoked, ate
sweetmeats, and conversed by interpreter, and after two mortal hours'
stay (conceive such a visit!) were preparing to go when his
father-in-law arrived. I was told it would be grossly impolite to
persist in going, so we stopped on. Beki sent his slaves forward to
usher in the new arrival, and then stood in a particular spot and
position to receive him, and touched his garment with his hand, which he
then kissed. He then paid him the highest marks of attention, inquired
after his health, &c. The father then walked upstairs, attended by two
slaves, one on each side holding him under the arm, as if assisting him,
although he was not at all old. We stayed another half-hour, and then at
last tore ourselves away.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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