Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A. — John Shaqi
Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
History
Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert), 1788-1863; Europe -- Description and travel; Middle East -- Description and travel
In return for taking me to see a certain palace, Beki begged me show him
the English embassy. He accordingly called on me on an appointed day at
ten o'clock. Taking a hint from my host I had a breakfast prepared which
we should call a solid dinner; and a parasite living in the inn, a
common animal in these countries, assisted my party. My visitors made a
big day of it, and got very merry over their fare, drinking copiously of
rum punch, which, as it is not wine, is not forbidden to the Mussulman,
and at the end paid me a string of compliments. I presented my visitor
with one of those new phosphoric contrivances [? a tinder-box.--ED.],
and never was an effendi more delighted. 'If you had given me a casket
of jewels,' said he, 'I should not have been better pleased.'
We walked up to the embassy and sauntered about the rooms. What best
pleased Beki were the pictures of the King and Queen, which he
pronounced very beautiful (_Chouk Guzul_), and the cut-glass
chandeliers; but the few windows seemed dull to his Turkish taste.
We got home and regaled again, and on his proposal to retire, I returned
him his compliment and begged him to stay and sleep, which I am happy to
say he refused, for where we should have stowed him I know not.
So passed an idle, odious day. I was worn out with trying to do the
agreeable through an interpreter, but--I had seen a Turkish gentleman.
And when I reflect upon him, I cannot help feeling that, as a contrast
to what I am accustomed to, there was something very fascinating about
him. I have been used to see men slaves to their affairs, still wearing
themselves with work when they possess every requisite of life, and not
knowing how to enjoy the blessings their exertions have procured them.
Whereas here was a man who calmly enjoyed what he had, doing his best to
make himself and those around him happy. With any but absolute paupers
contentment is the common frame of mind in this country. The poor
tradesman in the bazaar works his hours of business, and then sits
cross-legged on his shop-board and enjoys his pipe like an emperor.
There is no mean cringeing for patronage. The very porters in their
services have an air of condescension, and never seem to feel
inferiority.
The climate, of course, has a great deal to do with it. One may sleep in
the open air most of the year, and if one does little work, a bit of
water-melon and slice of bread dipped in salt and water is an excellent
repast. Temperance is hardly a virtue where rich food could only make
one unwell.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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