Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
History
Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert), 1788-1863; Europe -- Description and travel; Middle East -- Description and travel
Whatever be the attraction--the tenets of the Faith, or the leisurely
life, or the desire to live in Turkey without the inconveniences of
nonconformity--conversion to Mahommedanism is a very common thing. I
have met several French renegades, and some English have been pointed
out to me. Our frigates have frequent quarrels with the Turks on this
head; and even of the Spaniards, who are supposed to be so bigoted, an
incredible number turned Turks at the time that their ships of war first
came up here.
As for society amongst the foreigners, diplomatic and others, although
there is a complete Frank quarter, and it is said to have been at one
time very pleasant, there is hardly any now. For one thing, in these
times of general war, the ministers of countries at variance at home now
hold no communication, nor do their families; in the case of the French
this is by a peremptory order of their Government. So there is little
meeting and next to no entertainment, and for lack of other amusement a
vast deal of scandal, of mining and countermining of each other's
reputations, with the result that they come to be nearly as mean in
character as they try to make each other out to be; and another reason
is that among the merchants who formerly vied in magnificence with the
ministers, there is now great distress, and hardly one could give a
decent dinner. Their ships lie rotting in the ports, and the hands,
Ragusans mostly, hang about gnawing their fingers with hunger.
Among the few families one could visit was that of the Charnowskis,
Poles, the ladies of which are the admired of all the English here, and
especially of my two companions, Sir W. Ingilby and Foster, who have
fallen completely under the thumbs of these beautiful sirens. I saw
enough of them to feel compassion for my friends and almost to need it
myself.
Another family we know, of the name of Hubsch, who are amusing. The
Baron, as he styles himself, is a sort of minister of a number of little
Powers which have no earthly relation with the Turks, as Denmark,
Prussia, Norway, &c., and as he hoists all their flags over his house,
the Turks believe him to be a very mighty person. He affects to be in
the secrets of all the Cabinets of Europe, and assumes an air of
prodigious mystery in politics. He is banker and manager of all things
and all persons who will be imposed upon by him.
I imagine him to be a regular adventurer; but adventurers are common in
Constantinople. It seems to be one of their last resorts."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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