Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
History
Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert), 1788-1863; Europe -- Description and travel; Middle East -- Description and travel
From Mycone the travellers sailed to Syra, and from thence to Zea, where
they stayed some days at least; for there is in Bronstedt's "Voyages et
recherches en Grèce" a drawing by my father of a colossal lion which
must have been made at this time. Ingilby had left them, but my father
and Foster must have arrived in Athens about the beginning of December
1810. Not long after he made acquaintance with a brother craftsman,
Baron Haller von Hallerstein, a studious and accomplished artist, about
fourteen years his senior, and a gentleman by birth and nature;
altogether a valuable companion. The two struck up a great intimacy, and
henceforth were inseparable. They could be of service to each other.
Haller was travelling on a very small allowance from his patron, Prince
Louis of Bavaria; and my father, while he profited by the company of a
man of greater learning and experience, was able in return to add to his
comfort by getting commissions for him to do drawings for some of his
English friends,[15] and in other ways supplementing his means. He had
come to Athens from Rome with one Linckh, a painter from Cannstadt,
Baron Stackelberg,[16] an Esthonian from Revel, Bronstedt,[17] a Dane,
and Koes, another Dane, all of them accomplished men, seriously engaged
in antiquarian studies. Together they formed a society suited to my
father's tastes and pursuits.
In the way of Englishmen there were Messrs. Graham and Haygarth and Lord
Byron, all three young Cambridge men of fortune, with whom, especially
the two first, he was intimate.
His only other friends, except Greeks, were Fauvel, the French consul,
who had taste and information, and was owner of a good collection of
Greek antiquities; and Lusieri,[18] the Italian draughtsman to Lord
Elgin, an individual of indifferent character.
Athens was a small place. There was a khan, of course, but nothing in
the shape of an hotel. The better class of travellers lived in lodgings,
the best known of which were those of Madame Makri, a Greek lady, the
widow of a Scotchman of the name of Macree, who had been British consul
in Athens in his day. She had three pretty daughters known to travellers
as "les Consulines" or "les trois Grâces," of whom the eldest was
immortalised as "the Maid of Athens" in a much overrated lyric by Lord
Byron, who was one of their lodgers.
As they were going to stop some time in the town, instead of going into
an apartment, Foster and my father took a house together.
"There is hardly anything that can be called society among the Greeks. I
know a few families, but I very rarely visit them, for such society as
theirs is hateful.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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