Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
History
Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817: The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert)
Cockerell, C. R. (Charles Robert), 1788-1863; Europe -- Description and travel; Middle East -- Description and travel
As for the Greek men, in their slavery they have become utterly
contemptible, bigoted, narrow-minded, lying, and treacherous. They have
nothing to do but pull their neighbours' characters to pieces. Retired
as I am, you would hardly believe there is not a thing I do that is not
known and worse represented. Apropos of an act of insolence of the
Disdar aga's (which I made him repair before the waiwode, the governor
of the town), I heard that it was reported that I had been bastinadoed.
This report I had to answer by spreading another, viz. that I should
promptly shoot anyone, Turk or Christian, who should venture to lay a
hand upon me. This had its effect, and I heard no more of bastinadoing.
I do not think we are in much danger here. The Franks are highly
esteemed by the governor, and the English especially.
The other day we witnessed the departure of the old waiwode and the
arrival of the new. Just as the former was leaving, the heroes from the
Russian war arrived, brown and dusty. The leading man carried a banner.
As they came into the court they were received with discharge of
pistols, and embraced by their old friends with great demonstrations. I
was very much affected. I heard afterwards that the rogues had never
been further than Sofia, and had never smelt any powder but that which
had gone to the killing of one of them by his companion in a brawl. So
much for my feelings. The outgoing waiwode was escorted by the new one
with great ceremony as far as the sacred wood.
March 13 is the Turkish New Year's Day, and is a great festival with
them. The women go out to Asomatos and dance on the grass. Men are not
admitted to the party, but Greek women are. Linckh, Haller, and I went
to see them from a distance, taking with us a glass, the better to see
them. We were discovered, and some Turkish boys, many of whom were
armed, came in great force towards us, and began to throw stones at us
from some way off. Instead of retreating, we stood up to receive them,
which rather intimidated them, and they stopped throwing and came up. We
laughed with them, which in some measure assuaged them, and when some
one said 'Bakshish' we gave them some to scramble for, and so by degrees
retired. Some of the Greek and Turkish women laughed at us for being
driven off by boys; but it was a dangerous thing so to offend national
prejudices, and I was very well pleased to be out of it. At best ours
was an inglorious position.
Foster has received a love letter: a para with a hole in it, a morsel of
charcoal, and a piece of the silk such as the women tie their hair
with. This last signifies that the sender is reduced to the last
extremities of love, and the idea is that a sympathetic passion will
arise in the receiver and make him discover the sender within nine
days."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account